Gen 5: 2016 -> Sprocket change or OEM? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Sprocket change or OEM?

Was picking up a set of chain and sprockets for my Gen 5. Had a few queries on them so looking for some help:

1. Should I go for -1/+2 or -1/+1 or keep the sprocketing stock? I do find the bike takes its own sweet time to rev up till the powerband and this at times is a killjoy at the racetrack. Does a -1/+1 make sense or a +2 is the bare minimum to get any noticeable difference? What would be the impact on the top end with a +1 or a +2 at the rear?

2. Massively confused on whether to go for a 520 conversion or 525? Steel sprockets or Aluminium ones?

I am leaning towards Renthal for sprockets and DID for chain. My usage is a mix of weekend riding and trackdays.

Thank you
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post #2 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 07:43 AM
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This is a completely subjective topic that no one can answer over the internet. It completely depends on what YOU like. Some people like -1/+1, others swear -1/+2, and others still like just +1 or +2 on the back. YOU have to try different combinations to see what YOU like in the riding conditions that YOU do and that make sense for YOU and YOUR bike.

Same goes with a 520 or 525 conversion. If you're that conflicted about it, stick with the 525 stock size. Aluminum on the rear if you don't mind changing sprockets more often. Steel if you want to put it on and basically forget about it.
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post #3 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 08:21 AM
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-1 +2 will feel like a complete different bike. Thats what i run and love it. cant keep the front down 1-3. chain size kinda depends on what youre using it for? street or drag bike just run a 525, track bike run 520. like sky dork said run steel if you want to put it on and forget about it.
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post #4 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 09:40 AM
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-1 in the front +2 in the rear.. i went 520 on the chain and aluminum on the rear sprocket.. i figure why not save all the weight you can. Just be prepared for that front sprocket if you do it yourself.. thing is a mother#$%@er to get off.
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post #5 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Read up on a lot of threads on the forum in the meantime on the subject.

Will read up a bit more and then decide between going either (stock/+1) or (-1/+1) considering I need to strike the right balance between acceleration and top end. Maybe I will just order a stock front, a -1 front and a +1 rear and swap the fronts if I dont like one particular combination. The +1 on the rear is sure go ahead.

Read up on the different threads and the conversion factors between the sprockets. This is why I love this forum!

Also checked out gearingcommander.com but not very convinced on the top end speeds being projected in the algorithms. I frankly believe the actual difference is better felt and calculated with actual riding.

Just wanted feedback from folks who have possibly tried both stock/+1 and -1/+1. Will make decision making a lot easier.

Have decided to stick to the 525 pitch and steel sprockets as I dont want to keep changing sprockets too often. Thinking of going with Vortex steel sprockets (unless any of you have had a bad experience with vortex). Will get to the 520 and all aluminium conversion if I start racing. Till then 525 FTW.

A buddy who runs a -1/+2 on his 08 R1 suggested that I prepare myself for a lower gas mileage (doesnt matter too much) and a 10-15% more tyre wear with a -1/+2.
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post #6 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroomshankar View Post
Thanks guys. Read up on a lot of threads on the forum in the meantime on the subject.

Will read up a bit more and then decide between going either (stock/+1) or (-1/+1) considering I need to strike the right balance between acceleration and top end. Maybe I will just order a stock front, a -1 front and a +1 rear and swap the fronts if I dont like one particular combination. The +1 on the rear is sure go ahead.

Read up on the different threads and the conversion factors between the sprockets. This is why I love this forum!

Also checked out gearingcommander.com but not very convinced on the top end speeds being projected in the algorithms. I frankly believe the actual difference is better felt and calculated with actual riding.

Just wanted feedback from folks who have possibly tried both stock/+1 and -1/+1. Will make decision making a lot easier.

Have decided to stick to the 525 pitch and steel sprockets as I dont want to keep changing sprockets too often. Thinking of going with Vortex steel sprockets (unless any of you have had a bad experience with vortex). Will get to the 520 and all aluminium conversion if I start racing. Till then 525 FTW.

A buddy who runs a -1/+2 on his 08 R1 suggested that I prepare myself for a lower gas mileage (doesnt matter too much) and a 10-15% more tyre wear with a -1/+2.
Then there are guys like me who prefer +2 rear only so the change is not too aggressive and it shortens the wheelbase to help with turn-in slightly. Plus the rear sprocket is much easier to change. This is essentially the same as going -1F, but with the advantages I just mention.

Gearingcommander.com speeds are theoretical based on the internal/external gearing. It's easy to calculate that stuff and pretty accurate*. But it doesn't take into account aerodynamic drag and torque - which means that those speed calculations are only accurate IF (and only if) the motor has enough power to get you to the RPM stated in the utility. I wouldn't focus at the top speeds listed, but rather the drop in MPH and rise in RPM based on difference between gearing combinations.

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post #7 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SkyDork View Post
Then there are guys like me who prefer +2 rear only so the change is not too aggressive and it shortens the wheelbase to help with turn-in slightly. Plus the rear sprocket is much easier to change. This is essentially the same as going -1F, but with the advantages I just mention.
You are right about the top speeds being academic and its the riding conditions at that very moment which define where you will max out at.

Just curious about two things since you mentioned you run a +2R. How is the difference in acceleration vs stock? Brutal enough to want to keep the front itchy to pop in the initial gears all the time?

Any idea how much top end you have lost with the +2 realistically?
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post #8 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 10:32 AM
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I would do -1 on this bike... or +2 on the back... no more.
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post #9 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 11:34 AM
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-1 +2 still indicated 186mph on my bike and gets there in no time.. when i had -1f it would still max out the cluster with most of 6th gear to go if i remember correctly.
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post #10 of 45 Old 01-03-2017, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroomshankar View Post
You are right about the top speeds being academic and its the riding conditions at that very moment which define where you will max out at.

Just curious about two things since you mentioned you run a +2R. How is the difference in acceleration vs stock? Brutal enough to want to keep the front itchy to pop in the initial gears all the time?

Any idea how much top end you have lost with the +2 realistically?
Any change to the gearing you make will be noticeable. +2R for me makes it just about right. Throttle response is improved, acceleration is more aggressive, and it wheelies easier for sure. Is it overly aggressive? I wouldn't say so. It's not like you're going to be fighting the front to stay down all the time. But it will come up easier.

Top speed is irrelevant to me. I'm too fat to tuck in all the way so I can't get it to the top speed anyway. I saw 182mph indicated on the cluster with that gearing and it was about out of steam. Given the instrumentation error, I'd say I was about 175mph or so actual. The gearing probably dropped top speed about 5mph or so from stock.
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