Gen 3: 2008-2010 Removing small amount of fork oil - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 24 Old 05-14-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by skidooboy View Post
my bad, I read the original post wrong, I thought he did not have enough rebound dampening, and was looking to slow the rebound down more. (the gen4 rear shock is like that, not enough rebound dampening in the shock adjustment).

thinner oil would help but, still be a band aid. Ski
If you thought your mistake was bad, you should have seen my post helping him set the bike up for his wife. No idea why, but i thought thats what he was doing.

The stock fork settings, and shock settings are tough to deal with. Its not kawasakis fault. How do you set up a fork , or shock, for a rider between 145lbs and 250 lbs who may or may not go to the track.

Same rider may also carry a 165lb passenger, or not....the answer is, you really cant.

Notice one thing on the 10rr, sp2, and bikes in this class with up-rated suspension. Step 1 is to eliminate the passenger seat.

Thsi helps , somewhat, and that passenger weight is no longer accounted for.
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post #12 of 24 Old 05-14-2017, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the input... i suspect it's a revalve ultimately.
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post #13 of 24 Old 05-16-2017, 07:30 AM
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A revalve, with correct spring will spoil you. You'll never ride a stock fork again and enjoy it.

Highly recommended, but it gets expensive.
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post #14 of 24 Old 05-16-2017, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Tearaway View Post
Is it possible to remove a small amount of fork oil with the forks in place? My rebound is too slow even with it all dialed out. I believe if I take a little oil out that it will help a little which is really all I need

I don't want to go through the hassle of stripping the forks down and doing an oil change which is probably what I should do.

Is there a handy way of doing it by popping the caps and any idea how much I should take out?
Everyone has hit the nail on the head, airgap affects spring, not damping.

But the bigger question is WHY do you think you have too much rebound? What year bike? There are other variables that you could be missing. What other modifications have you done to the fork, if any?

Stupidity and Motivation are a dangerous combination

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post #15 of 24 Old 05-17-2017, 08:11 AM
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I would be curious as to his answer, as well.

If you are trying to fix someones suspension, its a dream come true when they are able to nail down such a specific complaint.

You usually get, "Well, i'm not sure..its soft, in a hard sort of way..." and that is a nightmare.
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post #16 of 24 Old 05-17-2017, 09:26 AM
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I would be curious as to his answer, as well.

If you are trying to fix someones suspension, its a dream come true when they are able to nail down such a specific complaint.

You usually get, "Well, i'm not sure..its soft, in a hard sort of way..." and that is a nightmare.
This is true. That's why asking the right questions gets you the answers you need. But if you think club/trackday riders are bad, try workin with pro riders. They're worse! It's always the bike's fault.
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post #17 of 24 Old 05-18-2017, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the input.... to answer your questions... I'm trying to set up the bike to my liking. I upgraded the rear spring for my weight 12.5 stone and I'm in the process of correcting the suspension setting for the shock - At present I have don't have enough rebound on the rear but I've made a few adjustments and I'm back on track at the weekend so I'll know then. Tyre wear is pretty obvious it's too fast on the rebound on the rear.

The front is too stiff for my weight and tyre wear on the front has all the hall marks of a rebound issue- with debris on leading edge and wear on rear of the sipe which indicates too slow rebound. Logic tells me to sort out the back first which I am so at the moment I'm just gather info on what to do with the front.

I don't have spare cash to throw into this bike a the moment!
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post #18 of 24 Old 05-18-2017, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Tearaway View Post
Thanks for all the input.... to answer your questions... I'm trying to set up the bike to my liking. I upgraded the rear spring for my weight 12.5 stone and I'm in the process of correcting the suspension setting for the shock - At present I have don't have enough rebound on the rear but I've made a few adjustments and I'm back on track at the weekend so I'll know then. Tyre wear is pretty obvious it's too fast on the rebound on the rear.

The front is too stiff for my weight and tyre wear on the front has all the hall marks of a rebound issue- with debris on leading edge and wear on rear of the sipe which indicates too slow rebound. Logic tells me to sort out the back first which I am so at the moment I'm just gather info on what to do with the front.

I don't have spare cash to throw into this bike a the moment!
Be careful with "tire reading". I know it's all the fad right now but you can spend a lifetime chasing your tail trying to get the "perfect" tire wear. A bigger question is what do you FEEL. What are you feeling on track that would suggest that the front springs are too stiff? Also what kind of preload are you running and what gen 10 are you on?
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post #19 of 24 Old 05-18-2017, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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It's a gen 3 bike. I've dialed all the rebound and compression out. The bike needs a bit of force to turn.

I replaced the rear spring. It was slightly shorter than the standard one but I have good sag of 31mm. Front sag is 36mm.

The other option I'm looking at is dropping the fork tubes in case the slightly shorter spring has altered the ride height.
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post #20 of 24 Old 05-18-2017, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by evallarta1 View Post
Be careful with "tire reading". I know it's all the fad right now but you can spend a lifetime chasing your tail trying to get the "perfect" tire wear. A bigger question is what do you FEEL. What are you feeling on track that would suggest that the front springs are too stiff? Also what kind of preload are you running and what gen 10 are you on?

100% AGREE & the real truth is most trackday riders suffer from incorrect tire pressure issues long before the actual suspension damping comes into play or even aggregate in the track surface. They don't know their tire gauge is out of calibration or haven't bothered to test different pressures on their own and just rely on what pressure some tire guy or racer once told them to run and those numbers change all the time with DOT race tires based on a myriad of variables and track conditions.
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