This is a really stupid question, but I'd like to hear the responses. On the Gen 5, manual says 3.5 quarts. This puts the oil up to bottom of the top fill mark. Is this ok? Should I be putting in less? I ask because I changed my air filter recently, and noticed a little oil in the air box. There was no dust, just some oil around the upper sides, and a little dribbled down to the bottom around cylinder 3. Nothing pooled up, or drained into the clear hose.
When I change my oil, I warm the bike up, put it on a rear stand, and remove the drain bolt, and the oil fill cap. I let the bike sit there until it is barely dripping, like maybe 10 to 15 minutes. I then install the oil drain bolt and remove the filter, and let that drizzle to very slow drip as well, maybe 5 to 10 minutes. I then wipe some old oil around the new filters O-ring (I change the oil every 1000 miles), and install the filter (I do not put any new oil in the filter before installing). I then add 3.5 quarts install the oil fill cap, and start the bike.
Now that procedure being said, I put in a little more than 3.5 quarts on one of my oil changes (and I think that is why I have the oil in my airbox - fingers crossed), I rode the bike maybe 50 miles before checking the level and draining some out.
So I question if 3.5 quarts is really too much oil. I noticed after riding, if I remove the oil fill cap, and with a flashlight look into the case, the oil looks a little "frothy" which is not good, right?
Save yourself the headache of over thinking this. Just target the top line on the sight glass AFTER you've primed the filter by running the new oil for a few moments. Personally, I prime the new filter before installing it but it probably doesn't matter since the we warmed it up before draining and there'll be a film of old oil protecting the internals.
By "frothy" if you mean it looks like a chocolate milkshake, you have some built up moisture in the motor from a long cold storage period or a head gasket issue. That's a mix of oil and water. If it's from a cold storage, you just need to take the bike out for nice long (hot) run to burn off that water.
Don't pull a rookie mistake and run the bike every week in your garage for 10 minutes. That's a bad idea and will cause the milkshake to occur.
By "frothy" I mean, there was a very thin layer of what looked like bubbles at the top, I'd compare it to like the head of a beer, it definitely didn't look like oil in a non-agitated state. Bike is stored in a heated garage.
I read somewhere that too much oil can cause the "frothy" to happen and that is obviously not ideal for lubrication, so that in conjunction with riding it for 50 miles before I drained some out (which is when I checked and saw the "frothy"), leads me to think, or rather hope that is the reason I saw some oil in my air box.
On rear stand, do what rider above said and load, kinda load the new filter with oil; install filter. Add about three quarts. Run for a few minutes. Go away for one hour. Look at glass and add and repeat, but add very little, like a half cup. Engine is tiny. Repeat that about ten times until you get the feel of how small the oil stomach is on our engine.
Take your time. If you overfill and run a loop, you will burn oil. You'll know, as you'll smell it burning. The bike hates that.
Trust me. Been there.
Also, and this is kinda odd, the entire glass covered in oil does NOT mean too much oil if you add tiny amounts. Too much oil problem is you add WAY too much; this links to the above burn oil problem.
When I overfilled, it wasn't by very much, maybe an ounce or two.
Why would I be seeing oil in my airbox if it wasn't because of overfilling? Is there anything I can do to test if there are issues? Are there any symptoms? I don't smell oil burning, I don't see any smoke coming out of my exhaust.
Also, how would I know I am at the fill line, if the bike is on a rear stand when adding oil?
Can't edit my post, sorry. But isn't there a synthetic oil out there that is a different color, like I think green? I'd be real curious to try that for my next change, and then inspect the air box to see if I see green oil deposits. Good idea? LOL I have no clue, but this is something that bugs the hell out of me.
The green oil you are talking about is probably Motul 300V. Oil is a topic that peoples opinions and views differ greatly on so do your own reading and decide for yourself. Personally I think 300V is overkill fro a street bike and I run Motul 7100. It's red just in case the colour is important to you, lol.
Almost every sports bike I've had or worked on gets a very small amount of trace oil in the airbox. It is normal and nothing to be concerned about unless there is so much it's pooling in there. Usually it's from some oil passing the rings into the top end of the cylinders then coming up the intake into the airbox. Can also come through the valve stem collar from the valve train. The oil lubricates the wall of the cylinder and its only an issue if the rings are out of tolerance and too much oil passes them. The oil often burns on combustion but when the bike is not under load, especially if fuel cut kicks in, there is little combustion to consume the oil. I just want to stress I am talking a minute quantity. It can on some bikes also come through the AIS from the exhaust which plumbs back into the airbox. If it's not consuming oil and it's not blowing smoke it's probably fine. Do a leak down test if you want to be sure about the rings. Head gasket failure between an oil gallery and cylinder can also do it but that sounds unlikely.
Sorry, still can't edit my posts. Also installed fender eliminator, ASV brake and clutch levers, puig dark smoke windscreen, and couple other little pieces.
Yes, go slow and be safe. If you feel too fast then must slow to comfort level. As you get better the slow always feels 'slow' but the reality is NOT slow, just being safe.
Don't think anymore about whatever parts on this bike. Study that Code book.
I hear ya. After 10 years of riding, that book is always a good refresher at the start of the season for me.
But regardless, my zx10r is not exactly safe to ride on even a little bumpy or just wavey surface while in a turn at a moderate lean angle. This is why I made the thread about my rear shock and how to increase the preload before I decide to go and re-spring it or dish out a lot of money for an entire new rear shock.
Do I go full on racing around wherever I go? No, but the fun I do have on the bike can be down right scary sometimes depending on the road surface. The ride is like a boat, not at all like any other bike I have ever owned on the exact same roads. Those bikes had a firmer suspension.
So if you honestly care to help me out, please help me with my rear shock in the Suspension forum. I don't need to be reminded about Twist of The Wrist II every other post.
Other than that, your advice should be well heeded by a new rider, or even an experienced rider transitioning to a 1000cc supersport.
Thanks for your input, and looking forward to getting some help 0
Hey, I had the bike for almost two years now and I still haven't ridden without Traction Control. Take your time to tame the beast. People can laugh at us all they want, won't change a damn thing when you're home, safe, that night because you didn't do anything stupid with a bike you don't master yet.
Also for the oil thing, first oil change I did I aimed right under the top indicator in the glass, while the bike is running for ~5 minutes. 2-3 days later, I had to take out AT LEAST a liter of oil. I have no idea where that oil came from, but I was way over the upper limit when I checked again a couple of days later.
So just check and double check again a few days later to be safe.
Edit: Forget my first paragraph, I just read your own last post. I'll keep it there in case a new rider reads it anyways.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum
2.1M posts
128.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Kawaski ZX-10R superbike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, riding tips, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!