Gen 5: 2016 -> OEM CHain & Sprocket replacement for durability... your thoughts/suggestions ? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-11-2017, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Question OEM Chain & Sprockets replacement for durability... your thoughts/suggestions ?

I don't want a 520 conversion, staying with 525 17t front and 39t back for my 2016 bike.
I was looking for both steel sprockets, but people told me anodized aluminum is just as strong...

Here's what I'm looking to purchase right now:




Does it look fine ? I'm at 32,000 km (20K miles) after a year of ownership and I'd like to have something that'll last just as long.
I never did a track day. I might do one or two in the next year, but other than that I'm a street rider.

I'm pleased with the 315Km/h (195mph) top speed right now and I don't plan on getting faster acceleration or higher top end for the moment.

I'm not sure about the sprockets... I don't know which brand is good, or which model of sprocket changes what (eg.: there's a few renthal 525 sprockets available, but I don't know the difference between them apart from the material used).

What do you guys think ?

PS: Don't mind the prices, they're in CAD.

Last edited by lun471k; 09-11-2017 at 02:44 PM. Reason: Fixed useless capital letters in title and added an 's' to sprocket.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-13-2017, 09:28 PM
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Yes to superstreet; it comes with the rivet link. I would go 16 steel front and stay oem steel 39 rear if running the metzler rr tire. Steel only but if not oem steel I'd go only Vortex steel on rear with that met. rr tire. Front tire I would run bridgestone rs10 m.

Check amazon price above for that chain. Go to motomummy and buy rk chain breaker or check around for best price on that rk chain breaker. That breaker works.
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-14-2017, 08:12 AM
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Have the same Renthal in 40. It will NOT last as long as stock steel by far. Mine is already showing wear after 800 miles. I expect it to last around 3-4000 miles if the wear rate continues. I heard AFAM HA alloy sprockets is supposed to last longer.

Also have the same front sprocket in 16. Condition is good after about 7500 miles. I expect it to last at least a few thousand more. Stay with steel in front.

The chain is very good!
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-14-2017, 06:22 PM
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Anodized forged and cnc'd aluminium is most definitely NOT as strong as steel. Forged aluminum has a lower hardness rating compared to forged steel and the anodizing does not add any strength whatsoever, only beauty and corrosion resistance.

I wanted longevity over weight savings and so I went with a steel rear sprocket.

2013 ABS, Bridgestone T30 Evo, Woolich, Danmoto shorty & link, Rifleman's 1/5th turn, K&N, GP shift, Gen5 shock/links/dogbone, JT (-1/+0), EK, Shorai, EBC HH, AllBallz roller steering, heated grips, shorty levers, MotoDynamic signals & relay, plasti-dipped and vinyl wrapped (all green to black), Bestem carbon, PUIG Pro sliders, solo cowl, modded sprocket cover, TST fender elim. w/LEDs. 45,000km+ and going strong!
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-15-2017, 06:24 AM
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Actually (hard) anodizing do add increased resistance to abrasive wear, and lessen friction. Even the natural corrosion of aluminium does too, but much less than anodizing of course.

In regards to applications such as sprockets, the anodizing layer is so thin that it quickly wears off from the high load parts of the sprocket teeth. So at least for the Renthal I have, it adds very little to overall wear resistance. But I believe the AFAM also add som PTFE to their coating which might make more of a difference. I don`t know. Have always used steel, but decided I`m gonna go with aluminum rear sprockets for a while now just for the hell of it. But I have no expectation of getting the same mileage out of them as steel.

Also with aluminum, correct rear wheel alignment is crucial to keep wear at the lowest rate. A few mm off and all the load is on just one halfside of the teeth. The chain is gonna dig in real fast. That means measuring alignment by other means than the lines on the swingarm.

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post #6 of 8 Old 09-15-2017, 12:03 PM
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Even with the hard anodizing that some suppliers use on their sprockets, you will not match the life of a steel sprocket. LDH wrote a pretty detailed article on sprockets a while back. He mentioned Renthal are not all that great and AFAM is not as good as they once were.

IMHO I don't see any benefit to running an aluminum sprocket on a bike that is ridden mostly street. The weight difference is not something an average joe is going to notice. Its not like a weight savings from going OEM wheels to say magnesium or carbon wheels.

Also, its not a bad idea to replace all sprockets and chain at the same time so they wear in together. Only time I see not changing everything out would be in racing situations where racers need different gearing on different tracks.

On my current bikes, my gsxr600 has a Supersprox Stealth sprocket (hybrid dual metal sprocket). It has been on the bike for 11 years and 10k+ miles now and it still looks in very good shape. On my zx-10r, I went with a JT steel sprocket. It has almost 5k miles on it now and still looks new. My only complaint with the JT is it looks like an ugly stock sprocket. I will more than likely be switching it to a Supersprox Stealth or Supersprox all steel sprocket. I was going to get the Superlite Steel sprocket, but some google search has come up with people saying their sprockets developing cracks in the thinnest part of the steel. That's a safety risk I will not take. I would rather deal with broken off sprocket teeth.

Since you're in need of all chains and sprockets, Supersprox Stealth isn't a bad option. If you buy their "Kit", the rear Stealth sprocket comes with a lifetime guarantee. If it does wear, you get a free replacement when you buy a new kit. No one else that I know of offers that, but I could be wrong.

Edit: I noticed your parts list and wanted to mention that most chains come with a masterlink.

Last edited by speed_freak91; 09-15-2017 at 12:11 PM.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-15-2017, 01:12 PM
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With respect, even hard anodizing is simply for aesthetics and it doesn't have the mohs hardness to withstand the abuse of metal on metal contact. In a high stress environment like a chain/sprocket interface, it won't remain on the teeth for long.

To give everyone an example, hard anodized on the chainrings of a well maintained bicycle won't even last under the torque of a human being with a fraction of a single horsepower. On aluminum motorcycle sprockets it's gone very quickly. Still, it's good for keeping the non-contact areas of the aluminum from experiencing unsightly surface corrosion so it has some benefit.

Go steel. Unfortunately most steel sprockets look pretty dull except for the Driven Superlite steel sprockets. They're pretty trick.

2013 ABS, Bridgestone T30 Evo, Woolich, Danmoto shorty & link, Rifleman's 1/5th turn, K&N, GP shift, Gen5 shock/links/dogbone, JT (-1/+0), EK, Shorai, EBC HH, AllBallz roller steering, heated grips, shorty levers, MotoDynamic signals & relay, plasti-dipped and vinyl wrapped (all green to black), Bestem carbon, PUIG Pro sliders, solo cowl, modded sprocket cover, TST fender elim. w/LEDs. 45,000km+ and going strong!
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-16-2017, 05:16 PM
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For street go steel. Under 100 HP maybe aluminum's OK. Driven is great stuff, light, strong, good-looking.

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