Gen 4: 2011-2015 My 2013 won't start, and I'm looking for any input. - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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My 2013 won't start, and I'm looking for any input.

I'm a new member here, so hi!

Anyhow, I'm having some serious issues and I was hoping to leverage the combined smarts of the lot of ya. Thanks for taking a look through my wall of text below ---- anywho, on to my sob story:


I have a 2013 10R and after adjusting the valves, I can't get it to start. It will crank fine.

I was able to get the bike to start and run twice (back to back) during my troubleshooting. It started, I turned it off. Started it back up. The only oddity with this was I had to hold the throttle open a bit to get it to start. Once started it idled just fine on its own. It sounded perfect. I ran it up to fan temp, then after fan brought temp back down, I turned it off. I was not able to restart after this.

When I try to start, it will pop & backfire out both the intake and the exhaust. It acts like it's not timed correctly (I know, perhaps it is - but read on..).

Needless to say, I'm pretty dang frustrated, and my next step is to go all the way back to the valves and redo everything again. However I was hoping someone might have a solid idea about what I may have missed.

What I did:
Valve adjustment
Replaced starter motor
Cleaned & reinstalled the air bypass screws in the throttle body (I wasn't able to fully sync the idle vacuum previously)
Cleaned the outside of the throttle bodies and the bores with some brakeclean.
Installed block-off plates (removed now)
New spark plugs (I have since put the old set back in)
Drained & refilled cooling system

What I have checked\tried:
I have checked every electrical connector I could find. Unhooked, inspected and reconnected.
I've tried cranking it over without the throttle bodies, and it cranks fine, and pumps air just fine. With the throttle bodies installed, I have issues where it pops, seems to bog at times when cranking. Basically it seems as if it can't pull air through the throttle bodies.
Compression is good across all cylinders.
There are no odd noises or obvious broken-ness other than not starting.
Verified, re-verified checked cam timings. Even removed & re-installed them and re-checked again that it was correct.
Put old set of known working spark plugs in.
Verified crank position sensor
Verified vehicle down sensor
Fuel is spraying into the cylinders (pump runs & builds pressure)
Verified coils are working (visible spark on removed & grounded plugs)
Verified the correct coil wires go to the correct plugs.
I made sure the throttle body had no blocked air passages and that all the vacuum caps & tubes were in place.
Battery is charged (I have two batteries and I have been charging & swapping them as I troubleshoot)
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 09:16 PM
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Any code?
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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No codes.
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 09:40 PM
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Can you get the ECU to go in code mode, it is done from dash?
I am thinking maybe the crank sensor not reading correctly or your ECU took a dump. looks like you checked all the timing chain for correct position.
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiffeee View Post
Can you get the ECU to go in code mode, it is done from dash?
I am thinking maybe the crank sensor not reading correctly or your ECU took a dump. looks like you checked all the timing chain for correct position.
No codes. I have hooked an oscilloscope up to the crank sensor and it's fine. If crank sensor was bad, no spark is generated (per service manual). I have spark.
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin Wehmeyer View Post
No codes. I have hooked an oscilloscope up to the crank sensor and it's fine. If crank sensor was bad, no spark is generated (per service manual). I have spark.
how about cam sensor ? is that hooked up?
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Gen4's don't have a cam sensor.
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
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Gen4's don't have a cam sensor.
sorry forgot about that check map sensor, correct vacuum

Last edited by chiffeee; 03-01-2017 at 10:03 PM.
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 10:15 PM
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Map sensor act like the cam sensor on that bike , it should have vacuum to sense number 1 and sink with crank sensor, so if something wrong with that could act up, it is odd that you don't have a code but the electronic part could be fine and you not getting the right vacuum to it .
Book calls it intake air pressure sensor , you have 2 of them service code 12 for number 1 and 16 for number 2

Last edited by chiffeee; 03-01-2017 at 10:42 PM.
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-01-2017, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiffeee View Post
Map sensor act like the cam sensor on that bike , it should have vacuum to sense number 1 and sink with crank sensor, so if something wrong with that could act up, it is odd that you don't have a code but the electronic part could be fine and you not getting the right vacuum to it .
Book calls it intake air pressure sensor , you have 2 of them service code 12 for number 1 and 16 for number 2
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Originally Posted by chiffeee View Post
Map sensor act like the cam sensor on that bike , it should have vacuum to sense number 1 and sink with crank sensor, so if something wrong with that could act up, it is odd that you don't have a code but the electronic part could be fine and you not getting the right vacuum to it .
Book calls it intake air pressure sensor , you have 2 of them service code 12 for number 1 and 16 for number 2
From what I understand the pressure sensors don't perform any function like the cam sensor. I believe the engine is a wasted spark setup, which just sparks on both the compression and exhaust stroke.

I have no codes for either of the sensors, and I have checked the input & output voltage of both sensors. Both measure fine.

You even unhook the #2 during synchronization of the TB.

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