My 2013 won't start, and I'm looking for any input.
I'm a new member here, so hi!
Anyhow, I'm having some serious issues and I was hoping to leverage the combined smarts of the lot of ya. Thanks for taking a look through my wall of text below ---- anywho, on to my sob story:
I have a 2013 10R and after adjusting the valves, I can't get it to start. It will crank fine.
I was able to get the bike to start and run twice (back to back) during my troubleshooting. It started, I turned it off. Started it back up. The only oddity with this was I had to hold the throttle open a bit to get it to start. Once started it idled just fine on its own. It sounded perfect. I ran it up to fan temp, then after fan brought temp back down, I turned it off. I was not able to restart after this.
When I try to start, it will pop & backfire out both the intake and the exhaust. It acts like it's not timed correctly (I know, perhaps it is - but read on..).
Needless to say, I'm pretty dang frustrated, and my next step is to go all the way back to the valves and redo everything again. However I was hoping someone might have a solid idea about what I may have missed.
What I did:
• Valve adjustment
• Replaced starter motor
• Cleaned & reinstalled the air bypass screws in the throttle body (I wasn't able to fully sync the idle vacuum previously)
• Cleaned the outside of the throttle bodies and the bores with some brakeclean.
• Installed block-off plates (removed now)
• New spark plugs (I have since put the old set back in)
• Drained & refilled cooling system
What I have checked\tried:
• I have checked every electrical connector I could find. Unhooked, inspected and reconnected.
• I've tried cranking it over without the throttle bodies, and it cranks fine, and pumps air just fine. With the throttle bodies installed, I have issues where it pops, seems to bog at times when cranking. Basically it seems as if it can't pull air through the throttle bodies.
• Compression is good across all cylinders.
• There are no odd noises or obvious broken-ness other than not starting.
• Verified, re-verified checked cam timings. Even removed & re-installed them and re-checked again that it was correct.
• Put old set of known working spark plugs in.
• Verified crank position sensor
• Verified vehicle down sensor
• Fuel is spraying into the cylinders (pump runs & builds pressure)
• Verified coils are working (visible spark on removed & grounded plugs)
• Verified the correct coil wires go to the correct plugs.
• I made sure the throttle body had no blocked air passages and that all the vacuum caps & tubes were in place.
• Battery is charged (I have two batteries and I have been charging & swapping them as I troubleshoot)