Gen 4: 2011-2015 My 2013 won't start, and I'm looking for any input. - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 21 Old 03-02-2017, 01:23 AM
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the one you talking about is the number 2 , the first one is to measured number one cylinder position sync with crank sensor , usually if off you will get a code but sense you remove the T body maybe something got out of place or got block from its vacuum , a long shot but check it and make sure it is ok , like you said when is back firing like that it is out of time. so is either timing chain or crank sensor or #1 air pressure sensor.

Another question is ,would you get a code if you disconnect one of the sensors? to just see if the ECU is working?

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post #12 of 21 Old 03-02-2017, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, if I unhook any of the sensors I get the proper code on the display for that sensor.
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-02-2017, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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I like the suggestion on the map sensors. I will have to take a closer look when I get home.
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-10-2017, 03:28 PM
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A friend had a mysteriously rough running Ninja 300, turns out he needed to replace his throttle bodies because the throttle position sensor is not available as a separate part.

Did you get any brake cleaner on your TPS? That stuff dissolves some plastics...

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post #15 of 21 Old 03-10-2017, 07:12 PM
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how many miles on the bike prior to all your work effort.
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post #16 of 21 Old 03-10-2017, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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how many miles on the bike prior to all your work effort.
42,000 miles.
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post #17 of 21 Old 03-10-2017, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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A friend had a mysteriously rough running Ninja 300, turns out he needed to replace his throttle bodies because the throttle position sensor is not available as a separate part.

Did you get any brake cleaner on your TPS? That stuff dissolves some plastics...
Yeah the whole TPS thing is pain in the ass. Can't buy the, and new throttle bodies for a gen4 is $1500. Nothing is broken, and the ECU says the sensors are fine.
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post #18 of 21 Old 03-11-2017, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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I went back all the way to the valves, checked everything again. Including the valves clearances. Checked sensors. I went to try and fire it up and my ECU freaked out. I'm now getting FI codes for every DFI sensor.

I think my ECU is toast, but I'm worried about just replacing it and having the new one fail. I suppose I will pull the wire harness and go over it with a fine tooth comb and see if there is a bad wire in there.
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post #19 of 21 Old 03-13-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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An update, just in case anyone reads this thread.

This time when I put it back together and tried to start it, I moved the ECU and everything started freaking out. Wiggling the black connector, things would go from bad to worse. Fan would come on, even though the bike was dead cold. Every sensor related to the fuel injection system was showing error codes. I was able to re-position the ECU and get the bike to fire up. It would run, but was running rough and super rich.

Something is physically broken inside the ECU. Grrrrr.... How'd I get so lucky to end up with a busted ECU and a self-destructed starter at the same time. Luck, it can be interesting to say the least.

Well at least I believe I found the problem, and I can get parts off eBay at a reasonable price.

The harness was the first thing I checked. I went through it with a fine tooth comb, checked every single connector. Probing from both sides, while wiggling wires and had no open or intermittent wires. Putting pressure on any of the wires would cause the ECU to to see every sensor as bad. Barely touching the black connector, with just enough pressure that did not move any wires the ECU would see the same problem. I even popped open the connector and didn't find any loose, out of place, stretched or corroded pins. I'm fairly confident that it isn't the harness and is the ECU. I believe must be a cracked solder joint on the pin connector inside the ECU. It just took 42000 miles and me messing with it to actually fail enough to cause issues.

Anyhow, the parts I ordered are on the way, and hopefully that solves my issue. Fingers crossed.
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post #20 of 21 Old 03-17-2017, 02:20 PM
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Read through the thread once so sorry if I missed it, but I didn't read anything about you removing the cam chain tensioner (which you're supposed to do), and resetting it once you re-assembled. Is it possible that the tensioner is fully extended and may have moved the cams out of position with the crank?
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