Lever free play issue with aftermarket levers - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-13-2017, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Lever free play issue with aftermarket levers

Just installed ebay levers to my Gen2 and everything fitted okay.
But when I came to the brake lever I had to really push the new lever (against the brake line nub thing) into place to get the bolt to line up. Now after screwing everything into place, the front brake lever has absolutely no play at all.

The slightest pressure on the lever will engage the brakes. Also the pads seem like they are rubbing slightly (more than before) when rolling the bike in neutral. The other problem that concerns me is that the brake light won't engage until front brakes are squeezed enough to lock up.

Any suggestions on how to tackle this would be most appreciated. The end goal would be to have just a few mils of play before brakes start.

Cheers.

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post #2 of 9 Old 08-13-2017, 08:04 AM
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My opinion is this. The solution is to throw those crap levers in the bin, put it down to experience and buy some reputable levers or go back to stock. There's a reason china levers are cheap. From what you describe if you ride the bike there is a likelihood the front brake will gradually tighten and lock on until it cools. I'm not making this up, it's happened many times before with shit aftermarket levers. Most times they will work fine but do you want to be the unlucky bastard whose front locks up?

Like I said that's my opinion and there will be plenty who will tell you the China gear is great and works fine. Personally I won't risk it with hard parts like levers, rear sets etc. A cheap screen fine but not something where it's failure could have catastrophic results.

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post #3 of 9 Old 08-13-2017, 10:53 AM
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have seen brakes lock very badly in the middle of a ride, cause : shitty brake levers...

levers need some play, because the fluid grows...
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-13-2017, 03:41 PM
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I definitely wouldn't be using them if they didn't perform 100% like stock. Sounds like they aren't machined perfectly.
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-13-2017, 08:29 PM
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Well, the lever is there for one purpose - to allow your fingers to squeeze the plunger in the master cylinder. It sounds to me like you think that the levers are just remove and replace. That's not true. If you didn't line up the plunger with the lever point and get it in the right way, then you get exactly what you've got now. Which is a pinched and misaligned plunger that is putting force on the brakes. And like everyone else has already told you above, in this condition be prepared for a full front brake lock up at speed within a a few miles/kilometers of travel. DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE AT ALL until you get this situation figured out.

There should be a small dimple in the lever where the plunger is supposed to reside. If that area rotates around or the plunger isn't properly aligned, then the movement isn't correct. Bad news!

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Last edited by SkyDork; 08-13-2017 at 08:42 PM.
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-13-2017, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the lever is there for one purpose - to allow your fingers to squeeze the plunger in the master cylinder. It sounds to me like you think that the levers are just remove and replace. That's not true. If you didn't line up the plunger with the lever point and get it in the right way, then you get exactly what you've got now. Which is a pinched and misaligned plunger that is putting force on the brakes. And like everyone else has already told you above, in this condition be prepared for a full front brake lock up at speed within a a few miles/kilometers of travel. DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE AT ALL until you get this situation figured out.

There should be a small dimple in the lever where the plunger is supposed to reside. If that area rotates around or the plunger isn't properly aligned, then the movement isn't correct. Bad news!
Will be having another look this afternoon at my install. The plunger is lined up with the dimple in the lever and I made sure of that, but I feel like it may just be because I was a bit tired during the install.

I have heard of a similar problem with people installing aftermarket levers and brakes locking up on them while riding so I've made sure to stay clear of riding the bike until I'm certain.

I wasn't sure if it was a case of adjusting the callipers to fix this as I haven't changed levers before?

I read up on reviews of the seller on ebay and no one else seemed to have this problem so it seemed strange to me

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post #7 of 9 Old 08-14-2017, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Okay so after having a deeper investigation of the lever I have since fixed the free play issue and now the brakes are performing as they were with the stock levers.

So at first it was that the plunger was already being pushed in by the lever (Although I had it lined up with the notch in the lever) the was a small gold bar inside that was pushing against the plunger. The bar which I assume was supposed to be able to move freely, was stuck with the dimple facing away from the plunger (and out of sight).

To fix this I had to pull out the clip holding the gold bar in place to remove it, clean it up, and pop it back in facing the right way and is now free to twist.

Now the plunger would fit all the way into the lever without engaging the brakes.

Looking at it now it seemed quite obvious but searching around on google/YouTube alot of people sounding like they had the same issue were being told that it's a good thing to have super firm brakes and that alot of people pay for this kind of setup.

Which I had a bad feeling about it and now i know that what I had would be quite dangerous if I were to ride with it. All because of a little bit of dust/dirt stopping a small bar from turning freely.

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post #8 of 9 Old 08-14-2017, 09:29 AM
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Glad to hear you have the issue resolved. For future reference, you don't have to take the snap ring out and remove the dowel inside. You can use a small screwdriver in the dimple to rotate it around and get it lined up properly. But whatever works.

As a side note, I hope you removed the spacer from the OEM clutch lever and put it in the aftermarket clutch lever so it doesn't flop around on the pivot bolt. Most people don't do that and then wonder why the clutch lever flops around. But I'm sure you got that right!


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post #9 of 9 Old 08-14-2017, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Glad to hear you have the issue resolved. For future reference, you don't have to take the snap ring out and remove the dowel inside. You can use a small screwdriver in the dimple to rotate it around and get it lined up properly. But whatever works.

As a side note, I hope you removed the spacer from the OEM clutch lever and put it in the aftermarket clutch lever so it doesn't flop around on the pivot bolt. Most people don't do that and then wonder why the clutch lever flops around. But I'm sure you got that right!

For my situation the bolt was completely flipped over and none of the dimple in sight, also stuck in that position so the only way was to pull it out.

And yep got the spacer

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