Gen 5: 2016 -> kit ecu qs/auto-blip issues - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-13-2018, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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kit ecu qs/auto-blip issues

Hey guys, wanted to put this out to the community to hopefully help me chase down this gremlin.

I have a 2017 with kit ecu. First ride out on track, I discovered that neither quick shifter or auto-blipper are working. The bike doesn't do anything, no matter how hard I push/pull. Otherwise, the bike runs fine.

I have the following things enabled:

Dash - KQS Up and Down set to ON (indicator is showing both arrows on the bottom right)
ECU Fi Software - Polarity set correctly but I tried both values (4 and 5)
ECU Fi Software - Shift Voltages are default
ECU Fi Software Monitoring Shift Sensor is reporting following values when I operate the shift lever:

At rest: 2.48v
High: 3.89v
Low: 0.70v

So the sensor is talking to the ECU.

Completely puzzled as to what else it might be.
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-13-2018, 04:43 PM
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kit ecu qs/auto-blip issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanister View Post
Hey guys, wanted to put this out to the community to hopefully help me chase down this gremlin.



I have a 2017 with kit ecu. First ride out on track, I discovered that neither quick shifter or auto-blipper are working. The bike doesn't do anything, no matter how hard I push/pull. Otherwise, the bike runs fine.



I have the following things enabled:



Dash - KQS Up and Down set to ON (indicator is showing both arrows on the bottom right)

ECU Fi Software - Polarity set correctly but I tried both values (4 and 5)

ECU Fi Software - Shift Voltages are default

ECU Fi Software Monitoring Shift Sensor is reporting following values when I operate the shift lever:



At rest: 2.48v

High: 3.89v

Low: 0.70v



So the sensor is talking to the ECU.



Completely puzzled as to what else it might be.


The std shift times are too short, you’ll need to adjust them to about 50/50/40/20/20 and then if you find the cut is too long you can start to shorten them again. STD map has 5/5/5/5/5 which is too short.

What version software?


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Last edited by Newf; 03-13-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-14-2018, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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The std shift times are too short, you’ll need to adjust them to about 50/50/40/20/20 and then if you find the cut is too long you can start to shorten them again. STD map has 5/5/5/5/5 which is too short.

What version software?


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I'm running advanced v1.10.

Thanks for heads up on the cut times. I'll look at those for sure.

I do believe I have figured out the problem otherwise. Not 100% sure (haven't tested) yet but it you have to reverse voltages when you go from std shift to gp on those 12 lines. (Shift UP/DOWN Judgement Voltage Low/High). That's 12 different lines in the settings. I assumed that changing "Shifter Sensor Type" from 4 to 5 would make software reverse polarity automatically but it doesn't. You have to do that manually. Again, I haven't confirmed it yet because it's raining but I'm reasonably certain this was the culprit.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-14-2018, 05:04 PM
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I'm running advanced v1.10.



Thanks for heads up on the cut times. I'll look at those for sure.



I do believe I have figured out the problem otherwise. Not 100% sure (haven't tested) yet but it you have to reverse voltages when you go from std shift to gp on those 12 lines. (Shift UP/DOWN Judgement Voltage Low/High). That's 12 different lines in the settings. I assumed that changing "Shifter Sensor Type" from 4 to 5 would make software reverse polarity automatically but it doesn't. You have to do that manually. Again, I haven't confirmed it yet because it's raining but I'm reasonably certain this was the culprit.


Yes if u change the shift sensor type you have to manually change the up/down judgement voltages. Also, in v1.1 the internal map cut times are different and I’ve had to run all 50/50/50/50/50 to be able to shift.




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post #5 of 9 Old 03-14-2018, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Lanister View Post
I'm running advanced v1.10.

Thanks for heads up on the cut times. I'll look at those for sure.

I do believe I have figured out the problem otherwise. Not 100% sure (haven't tested) yet but it you have to reverse voltages when you go from std shift to gp on those 12 lines. (Shift UP/DOWN Judgement Voltage Low/High). That's 12 different lines in the settings. I assumed that changing "Shifter Sensor Type" from 4 to 5 would make software reverse polarity automatically but it doesn't. You have to do that manually. Again, I haven't confirmed it yet because it's raining but I'm reasonably certain this was the culprit.
This. You are correct. GP shift requires swapping the voltages. PITA, but worth it.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-19-2018, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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This. You are correct. GP shift requires swapping the voltages. PITA, but worth it.
Wasn't too bad and it all worked out. Spent a weekend AFM racing at Buttonwillow and everything ran solid.
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-19-2018, 01:39 PM
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Wasn't too bad and it all worked out. Spent a weekend AFM racing at Buttonwillow and everything ran solid.
Cool. Hope BW was kind to you. It was damn-near perfect conditions on the 12th.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-19-2018, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Cool. Hope BW was kind to you. It was damn-near perfect conditions on the 12th.
Overall, it was damn close to ideal. Maybe a few degrees warmer would have been a bit better for grip but 60 degrees and light breeze on Sunday was absolutely nothing to complain about. The morning warm-up was a bit sketchy with ambient air in the 40s but everyone managed ok.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-19-2018, 10:44 PM
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Overall, it was damn close to ideal. Maybe a few degrees warmer would have been a bit better for grip but 60 degrees and light breeze on Sunday was absolutely nothing to complain about. The morning warm-up was a bit sketchy with ambient air in the 40s but everyone managed ok.
Lol. 40s in the AM are positively balmy for this time of year. February, we started the day at 38. Lots of cold-tire crashes - especially people using warmers. Glad it wasn't too brutal and the shift settings worked out.
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