Gen 2: 2006-2007 How to De-Cat Gen2 with Pics - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 29 Old 05-11-2016, 01:06 PM
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All the bolts on my Cat have worn away, I cant use an allen key on any bolts and my pliers cant turn the bolts either :( Sprayed WD40 and it did not budge.
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post #12 of 29 Old 05-11-2016, 01:09 PM
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All the bolts on my Cat have worn away, I cant use an allen key on any bolts and my pliers cant turn the bolts either :( Sprayed WD40 and it did not budge.
WD40 won't do shit. It's not a lubricant. You should've tried penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or something. Too late now though. Gonna have to drill out and replace the bolts if you wanna take it off. Or just leave it be.

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post #13 of 29 Old 06-22-2016, 11:14 AM
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WD40 won't do shit. It's not a lubricant. You should've tried penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or something. Too late now though. Gonna have to drill out and replace the bolts if you wanna take it off. Or just leave it be.

Service Manual states that to remove the front exhaust pipe, we will have to drain the coolant and remove the radiator fan and the radiator as well.

Can I remove the front exhaust without all that?
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post #14 of 29 Old 06-22-2016, 11:18 AM
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Service Manual states that to remove the front exhaust pipe, we will have to drain the coolant and remove the radiator fan and the radiator as well.

Can I remove the front exhaust without all that?
The radiator curves in close to the headers for cylinders 2 & 3. There's very little clearance to get in there to remove the nuts holding the header on, let alone getting the header moved forward enough to get the pipe out. No, you're going to have to take the radiator off.

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post #15 of 29 Old 06-22-2016, 12:01 PM
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The radiator curves in close to the headers for cylinders 2 & 3. There's very little clearance to get in there to remove the nuts holding the header on, let alone getting the header moved forward enough to get the pipe out. No, you're going to have to take the radiator off.
Is there any possible way to get those rusted down cat bolts without taking the whole front exhaust pipe off the bike..

PS: I can get a drill.
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post #16 of 29 Old 06-22-2016, 01:04 PM
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The radiator curves in close to the headers for cylinders 2 & 3. There's very little clearance to get in there to remove the nuts holding the header on, let alone getting the header moved forward enough to get the pipe out. No, you're going to have to take the radiator off.
I apologize for disagreeing and it can be done. I did it by removing only the bottom stay bolt of the radiator and the rad can be pushed a tad forward from the bottom that way. It is a tight squeeze but is doable with patients and a combination of long and short wrenches. A gear wrench or a flex head gear wrench would be best in my opinion but I used regular wrenches. I couldn't get a torque wrench in there but did tighten the nuts to the best of my experience. Again patients is key and you have to take extra care to not damage radiator fins. If I remember right and with the wrenches I had, both nuts on 4 & one on 3 I got from the brake lever side and 1, 2, and the other side of 3 I got from the clutch lever side or something along those lines like I improvised with the length of wrenches I was using. I loosened the header nuts then I took the middle clamp off and split the exhaust first before taking the header nuts off completely. I also flipped the copper gaskets when re-installing cuz they were more then a month on back order.
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post #17 of 29 Old 06-22-2016, 01:21 PM
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I apologize for disagreeing and it can be done. I did it by removing only the bottom stay bolt of the radiator and the rad can be pushed a tad forward from the bottom that way. It is a tight squeeze but is doable with patients and a combination of long and short wrenches. A gear wrench or a flex head gear wrench would be best in my opinion but I used regular wrenches. I couldn't get a torque wrench in there but did tighten the nuts to the best of my experience. Again patients is key and you have to take extra care to not damage radiator fins. If I remember right and with the wrenches I had, both nuts on 4 & one on 3 I got from the brake lever side and 1, 2, and the other side of 3 I got from the clutch lever side or something along those lines like I improvised with the length of wrenches I was using. I loosened the header nuts then I took the middle clamp off and split the exhaust first before taking the header nuts off completely. I also flipped the copper gaskets when re-installing cuz they were more then a month on back order.
First rule of .Net is to NEVER disagree with a Mod. How dare you!

There's no need to apologize! I suppose it can be done the way you suggest if you like working in that tight of a location. But if you go through the trouble of loosening the radiator to move it out of the way, why not just release the hose clamps and remove it completely? It would literally take like an extra 2 mins to do and refilling the coolant isn't that hard either. Given most people don't have a fancy array of tools at their disposal to finagle different wrenches to squeeze in there, it's probably not wise. The risk of bending the radiator fins is also quite high. Let alone the same problem you encountered by not being able to get a torque wrench in there. My opinion is to remove the radiator and use the proper tools to take the bolts out. It's easier in the long run than shifting the radiator around and working in such a tight area.

But, technically, you're correct.

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post #18 of 29 Old 06-22-2016, 01:23 PM
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Is there any possible way to get those rusted down cat bolts without taking the whole front exhaust pipe off the bike..

PS: I can get a drill.
Depends man. You're not going to have a lot of room working under the oil pan like that. You may or may not be able to get the drill straight on those bolts to drill them out. It's going to be easier to work with it off the bike for sure.

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post #19 of 29 Old 06-22-2016, 02:50 PM
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I apologize for disagreeing and it can be done. I did it by removing only the bottom stay bolt of the radiator and the rad can be pushed a tad forward from the bottom that way. It is a tight squeeze but is doable with patients and a combination of long and short wrenches. A gear wrench or a flex head gear wrench would be best in my opinion but I used regular wrenches. I couldn't get a torque wrench in there but did tighten the nuts to the best of my experience. Again patients is key and you have to take extra care to not damage radiator fins. If I remember right and with the wrenches I had, both nuts on 4 & one on 3 I got from the brake lever side and 1, 2, and the other side of 3 I got from the clutch lever side or something along those lines like I improvised with the length of wrenches I was using. I loosened the header nuts then I took the middle clamp off and split the exhaust first before taking the header nuts off completely. I also flipped the copper gaskets when re-installing cuz they were more then a month on back order.
You can do it that way, but I suspect that's why the back sides of so many peoples radiators are so beat to shit.
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post #20 of 29 Old 06-23-2016, 01:25 AM
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First rule of .Net is to NEVER disagree with a Mod. How dare you!

There's no need to apologize!
I am polite that way and not cuz your a Mod

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You can do it that way, but I suspect that's why the back sides of so many peoples radiators are so beat to shit.
Not the back of mine . I have done it both ways and I agree that it is actually easier and better to do it with the rad completely off. The rad just swings forward and it did save me from draining the rad in a moment of feeling that to be a chore. There is more then one way to skin a cat .
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