Gen 2: 2006-2007 Good battery, bike dies at the click of the start button - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 18 Old 09-25-2015, 04:12 PM
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A battery can drop a cell and will take a charge but as soon as you load the battery it will drop below 12v and thats the indicator the the battery is bad. You gotta admit though that replacing the battery is a lot easier than trying to trouble shoot and electrical problem.
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post #12 of 18 Old 07-21-2016, 10:47 AM
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I've got the same thing going on. I keep maintenance up on my bike and ride it year round. anytime I'm not riding it over a week is on the battery maintainer. i took it off the maintainer and rode up to the wife work, 15 minute ride, temp roughly 90. i don't like my bike sitting in the sun so i was there for 10 minutes roughly. I always let the bike warm up to 112 before i take off and it was still obviously good to go. When i started my bike it was cranking slow and turned over a few times until it started. i thought to my self, great the battery is hot because it was in the sun, my idiotic thinking process. about 8 minutes in to the ride home, the bike almost stalled at take off twice and i started to get a little worried. Then my dash lights went out, gauges quit working so i put the bike in high gear to get home soon. I'm by the lake and the bike dies completely. i couldn't even jump start it by coasting. so i sat for a couple minutes, turned the key over and the normal systems check happened but there was no mph digital reading. i tried multiple times to start it and it just would fire. i then sat running a million possibilities on what the issue might be and possibly how to get it home. About 20 minutes it seemed to gain enough charge for the digital reading for the miles per hour what is visible but I still wasn't able to turn it over and start it. So then I decided to push the bike partially down the hill and it was able to jump itself took off down the road and about maybe a mile and a half down the road it did the same thing died out on me I lost all Dash and digital stuff. So then I said for another 20-30 minutes and then I was able to get the bike started and got about three blocks from home and then it died so then I pushed it the rest of the way home. I'm not exactly for sure what caused the bike to do this but the battery is only a year old and it is not showing any signs of any other issues besides what started today. I'm thinking it might be the stator or the voltage regulator but has anyone had any issues I know it's pretty similar to "lilgodwin". Did you ever figure out what was exactly wrong and got it going?
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post #13 of 18 Old 07-21-2016, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by dmckimmey
I've got the same thing going on. I keep maintenance up on my bike and ride it year round. anytime I'm not riding it over a week is on the battery maintainer. i took it off the maintainer and rode up to the wife work, 15 minute ride, temp roughly 90. i don't like my bike sitting in the sun so i was there for 10 minutes roughly. I always let the bike warm up to 112 before i take off and it was still obviously good to go. When i started my bike it was cranking slow and turned over a few times until it started. i thought to my self, great the battery is hot because it was in the sun, my idiotic thinking process. about 8 minutes in to the ride home, the bike almost stalled at take off twice and i started to get a little worried. Then my dash lights went out, gauges quit working so i put the bike in high gear to get home soon. I'm by the lake and the bike dies completely. i couldn't even jump start it by coasting. so i sat for a couple minutes, turned the key over and the normal systems check happened but there was no mph digital reading. i tried multiple times to start it and it just would fire. i then sat running a million possibilities on what the issue might be and possibly how to get it home. About 20 minutes it seemed to gain enough charge for the digital reading for the miles per hour what is visible but I still wasn't able to turn it over and start it. So then I decided to push the bike partially down the hill and it was able to jump itself took off down the road and about maybe a mile and a half down the road it did the same thing died out on me I lost all Dash and digital stuff. So then I said for another 20-30 minutes and then I was able to get the bike started and got about three blocks from home and then it died so then I pushed it the rest of the way home. I'm not exactly for sure what caused the bike to do this but the battery is only a year old and it is not showing any signs of any other issues besides what started today. I'm thinking it might be the stator or the voltage regulator but has anyone had any issues I know it's pretty similar to "lilgodwin". Did you ever figure out what was exactly wrong and got it going?
So, you've got a few problems.

Let's dispel some of the myths you've got going on. Letting the bike sit out in the heat won't have any bearing on a sealed battery. Unless you're going to subject the battery to the point of it boiling and pooping the case, letting it sit outside in the sun in the desert won't do anything to it.

Putting the bike in a higher gear to get home faster won't help you either. That would keep the RPMs low and the alternator has to work harder.

Jump starting a bike is using a second battery connected to get it started. Bump starting is what is used to start an engine while rolling the bike and engaging the clutch in gear. Different things. And you'll never be able to bump start a fuel injected vehicle this way with a dead battery. The fuel pump is electric and must run to prime the fuel rail. If there isn't enough power to do this, trying to bump start it is futile. The only reason it worked for you was because the rail was already primed from being run recently.

You've got lots of things going on with your bike. First, the battery is dead. Whether it's bad or not is a different issue, but at this point it's dead or close to it. It's been providing all the power to keep the bike running and the motor shut off when there was nothing left to keep everything going (fuel pump, ignition coils, etc). The dash shuts off first, and then the motor. The ONLY thing the battery is there for is to start the bike. If the bike won't crank, cranks slowly, or the dash won't even turn on there's only one thing wrong - dead battery. Charge it.

So that leads into the next point. The bike should not be using the battery to power everything after the engine is started. The purpose for the alternator and rectifier is to keep the battery recharged and provide power to the rest of the electronics. So, since the battery is dead, then you have a charging system problem. It's either in the alternator output or the regulator/rectifier output that's faulty. There's no way of knowing which part without testing each one separately. But it will be either one or both parts.

Charge the battery or jump start the bike, then test the alternator output and then test the regulator output. That will tell you what part is bad so you can replace it.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

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post #14 of 18 Old 10-24-2016, 01:10 PM
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Does anybody has replaced the stock battery for a higher capacity battery 12-14ah? And what are the part number for them. The stock battery is YT12BS with 10ah capacity. Wich are the batteries with higher capacity with the same dimensions?
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-04-2017, 11:09 AM
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So, you've got a few problems.

Let's dispel some of the myths you've got going on. Letting the bike sit out in the heat won't have any bearing on a sealed battery. Unless you're going to subject the battery to the point of it boiling and pooping the case, letting it sit outside in the sun in the desert won't do anything to it.

Putting the bike in a higher gear to get home faster won't help you either. That would keep the RPMs low and the alternator has to work harder.

Jump starting a bike is using a second battery connected to get it started. Bump starting is what is used to start an engine while rolling the bike and engaging the clutch in gear. Different things. And you'll never be able to bump start a fuel injected vehicle this way with a dead battery. The fuel pump is electric and must run to prime the fuel rail. If there isn't enough power to do this, trying to bump start it is futile. The only reason it worked for you was because the rail was already primed from being run recently.

You've got lots of things going on with your bike. First, the battery is dead. Whether it's bad or not is a different issue, but at this point it's dead or close to it. It's been providing all the power to keep the bike running and the motor shut off when there was nothing left to keep everything going (fuel pump, ignition coils, etc). The dash shuts off first, and then the motor. The ONLY thing the battery is there for is to start the bike. If the bike won't crank, cranks slowly, or the dash won't even turn on there's only one thing wrong - dead battery. Charge it.

So that leads into the next point. The bike should not be using the battery to power everything after the engine is started. The purpose for the alternator and rectifier is to keep the battery recharged and provide power to the rest of the electronics. So, since the battery is dead, then you have a charging system problem. It's either in the alternator output or the regulator/rectifier output that's faulty. There's no way of knowing which part without testing each one separately. But it will be either one or both parts.

Charge the battery or jump start the bike, then test the alternator output and then test the regulator output. That will tell you what part is bad so you can replace it.

I tested the rectifier with a multimeter and the test was within the standards. so then I tested the stator and the stator was burned up a quick replacement of the stator fixed the problem. I have done a lot of reading up on I have done a lot of reading up on it and it seems right around 12000 - 13000 miles at the stator burns up or goes out.
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post #16 of 18 Old 09-05-2017, 01:07 PM
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I tested the rectifier with a multimeter and the test was within the standards. so then I tested the stator and the stator was burned up a quick replacement of the stator fixed the problem. I have done a lot of reading up on I have done a lot of reading up on it and it seems right around 12000 - 13000 miles at the stator burns up or goes out.
You and me both. Mine is sitting with exactly, and I mean exactly 12k, and a bad stator.
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post #17 of 18 Old 09-05-2017, 01:50 PM
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On my Gen 1 I had a bad relay that actually had the exact same symptoms as the OP - just FYI....another simple thing to check.

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post #18 of 18 Old 09-11-2017, 08:31 PM
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You and me both. Mine is sitting with exactly, and I mean exactly 12k, and a bad stator.
I've had the same experience with my 2nd gen. I'm half tempted to buy an extra stator and gasket to keep with me when I ride in case it craps out on the road.
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