Gen 4 zx10r clutch pattern.? - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 19 Old 04-09-2018, 10:37 AM
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Good deal! Ronayers is pretty competitive! I've had good luck in the past also with Honda East Toledo. It's more of a toss-up these days on who has better pricing.
Toledo is awesome!!! its about $25 cheaper than Ronayers and about $10 cheaper than PartZilla. Thanks again!

@SkyDork - BTW, you think I should be changing out all the steels or just the friction plates? I had it all open and noticed some lines, sort of burr marks on the steels, or is it normal wear to have these?

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post #12 of 19 Old 04-09-2018, 11:05 AM
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I always replace the steels and fibers at the same time as it doesn't seem worth it to me to put back in old steels if I'm in there but might start doing fibers and just rough up the steels with a scotch bright pad if I'm hurting on money that month or something.

An easy way to see if the steels are really warped is to hold them all together then hold them up to a light/sun. If you see light coming through any steels they're warped and should be replaced.
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-09-2018, 02:30 PM
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I used barnett clutch once, never again, clutch was toast after one track day, had to clean out pick up oil tube the next day from clutch material, went with OEM steel/fibers, and added 1st gen judder spring 13089-0003 and clutch has been great ever since, smooth as butter.
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post #14 of 19 Old 05-02-2018, 01:24 PM
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Man, you need the service manual. The part numbers don't mean much without referencing the exploded view. I'm sorry to hear you bought the Barnett ones.

If you haven't bathed the friction plates in oil overnight, that's the first thing to do. Load up a ziploc bag with the plates, put some oil in the bag, and seal it up for the night.

Are you wanting the order of the friction plates? The smaller, higher block count friction plates go at the ends (first and last in) to ride against the hub and basket. The last plate to go in is offset one tang from the others. The other frictions are all the same.

The steel plates consist of 7 the same and 2 different. The 2 plates go in the slots deepest in the basket and are slightly thicker to help house the spring plates. It's hard to describe without looking at the images. Basically it goes like this....

high count friction, thicker steel, spring seat, spring (raised edge out), friction, thicker steel, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, steel.........high count friction offset and the hub plate.

Hope that makes sense. Pictures are better though.
Just re-read this now and going to have to redo my friction & steels. have that backwards and i was following the service manual. it clearly states that plate 1 and 10 are the outer frictions and starts with #1 inside the basket, which is furthest away from the clutch springs. also same for steel plates, #1 steel plate is inside the basket. but the two thicker steels are labeled as #8 and #9 so, i don't see how they can be steel plate #1 and #2 which the spring plates reside. Also, what do you mean by raised edge? the flat edge?
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-02-2018, 02:35 PM
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Just re-read this now and going to have to redo my friction & steels. have that backwards and i was following the service manual. it clearly states that plate 1 and 10 are the outer frictions and starts with #1 inside the basket, which is furthest away from the clutch springs. also same for steel plates, #1 steel plate is inside the basket. but the two thicker steels are labeled as #8 and #9 so, i don't see how they can be steel plate #1 and #2 which the spring plates reside. Also, what do you mean by raised edge? the flat edge?
Do NOT redo anything! If you followed the service manual, then it's correct. It's hard to put that detail into typed words in my previous post. It likes like my wording didn't come across correctly and I botched it up. You're right, the 2 different plates go to the outside away from the engine case. But they're thinner, not thicker like the other 7. Ugh.

The spring plate I was attempting to describe has the raised edge out away from the engine casing. The flat piece goes in first and the lower part of the coned up edge (raised edge) goes to the outside. See the inset area below.

In this diagram, it is looking forward at the basket from the rear. The left side is in towards the engine case and the right side is the clutch springs and case cover.
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post #16 of 19 Old 05-02-2018, 04:01 PM
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Just re-read this now and going to have to redo my friction & steels. have that backwards and i was following the service manual. it clearly states that plate 1 and 10 are the outer frictions and starts with #1 inside the basket, which is furthest away from the clutch springs. also same for steel plates, #1 steel plate is inside the basket. but the two thicker steels are labeled as #8 and #9 so, i don't see how they can be steel plate #1 and #2 which the spring plates reside. Also, what do you mean by raised edge? the flat edge?
Do NOT redo anything! If you followed the service manual, then it's correct. It's hard to put that detail into typed words in my previous post. It likes like my wording didn't come across correctly and I botched it up. You're right, the 2 different plates go to the outside away from the engine case. But they're thinner, not thicker like the other 7. Ugh.

The spring plate I was attempting to describe has the raised edge out away from the engine casing. The flat piece goes in first and the lower part of the coned up edge (raised edge) goes to the outside. See the inset area below.

In this diagram, it is looking forward at the basket from the rear. The left side is in towards the engine case and the right side is the clutch springs and case cover.
Ok good, this is how I have them and that's the exact diagram I followed, along with parts diagram (parts diag is nicely blown up). Like an idiot, I picked up wrong tq wrench and overtightened the first spring bold and spun the head off bolt. Had to call Toledo to overnight me the needed parts otherwise I won't make track day on May 6.

Btw, thanks for their info, I can confidently recommend them now to anyone. Super nice people and superb service.

Now need to make sure to only tighten springs 97 INCH lbs and keep the FOOT lb wrench locked up away from me. Oh and get tq specs for the bolt that's inside
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post #17 of 19 Old 05-02-2018, 04:33 PM
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Ok good, this is how I have them and that's the exact diagram I followed, along with parts diagram (parts diag is nicely blown up). Like an idiot, I picked up wrong tq wrench and overtightened the first spring bold and spun the head off bolt. Had to call Toledo to overnight me the needed parts otherwise I won't make track day on May 6.

Btw, thanks for their info, I can confidently recommend them now to anyone. Super nice people and superb service.

Now need to make sure to only tighten springs 97 INCH lbs and keep the FOOT lb wrench locked up away from me. Oh and get tq specs for the bolt that's inside
Well ain't that a pisser. Just so you know, there's 12 inches to a foot. So the 97 in-lbs converts to 8 ft-lbs. Torque them to 8 ft-lbs and you'll be good. Unless you have a metric wrench. Do you need to conversion to newton-meters? Confused yet?

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post #18 of 19 Old 05-02-2018, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by F SANE IL View Post
Ok good, this is how I have them and that's the exact diagram I followed, along with parts diagram (parts diag is nicely blown up). Like an idiot, I picked up wrong tq wrench and overtightened the first spring bold and spun the head off bolt. Had to call Toledo to overnight me the needed parts otherwise I won't make track day on May 6.

Btw, thanks for their info, I can confidently recommend them now to anyone. Super nice people and superb service.

Now need to make sure to only tighten springs 97 INCH lbs and keep the FOOT lb wrench locked up away from me. Oh and get tq specs for the bolt that's inside
Well ain't that a pisser. Just so you know, there's 12 inches to a foot. So the 97 in-lbs converts to 8 ft-lbs. Torque them to 8 ft-lbs and you'll be good. Unless you have a metric wrench. Do you need to conversion to newton-meters? Confused yet? [IMG class=inlineimg]http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG] <a href="http://Zx-10r.net/forum/images/smilies/smilies/laughing.gif" border="0" alt="" title="LOL" >:-)</a>
Ha! No, I should be good. I did see 11nm I think... should of followed metric instead of the flawed US standard.
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-07-2018, 03:11 PM
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Ha! No, I should be good. I did see 11nm I think... should of followed metric instead of the flawed US standard.
Good news, clutch is all in and works better than ever. No more slipping at 10k rpm. BTW.... not sure I understand the last outer friction plate offset but i did follow that. BTW.... the NM torque is so much more accurate. Followed the NM this time and no issues at all. got me all new OEM, Friction, steel and spring/washer plates as well as stock springs and its perfect now. Highly recommend the stock Kawi parts! EastToledo saved my asshole, if it weren't for them I would have missed my Pocono track day.
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