Gen 1 down on power need HELP ! - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 21 Old 05-08-2017, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Thundercoupe. I'll start tearing into that tonight. I didn't know they had bad retainers.
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post #12 of 21 Old 05-13-2017, 04:44 PM
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I'd jump out the sidestand switch before tearing into the motor... Just my opinion and yes I've seen it happen before
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post #13 of 21 Old 05-17-2017, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Already tried the kickstand switch, wasn't the problem. I tore into the valve and all within spec except one exhaust valve was tight but still had .0055 clearance. Been talking with a service manager at local dealer, sport bikes are his specialty. He said the valve isn't the issue. Even though I changed still coils he's thinking it's gonna be in a coil arching or wire issue. So I'm gonna run the bike with the tank off and in the dark and look for an arch.
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post #14 of 21 Old 05-17-2017, 08:13 PM
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Spray water mist on coils while running. If it bogs you know there's a coil issue. Id check timing marks also
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post #15 of 21 Old 05-17-2017, 11:20 PM
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How do the new plugs look after running for a while? Tight valves would not really produce this type of effect. How does she run if you disconnect the PC3?
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post #16 of 21 Old 05-18-2017, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking PC also and I completely unplugged it with no change. The plugs seems to look the same but haven't put any real miles on them. I'm going to try the water mist and also run it in the dark to see if I can see an arch.
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post #17 of 21 Old 05-21-2017, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'm pulling my hair out on this. To recap I have a miss from idle thru most of the rpm range. I've been going by the service manual. I've replaced plugs, stick coils, and complete throttle body set up with NO change. Checked fuel pump has proper pressure and flow rate. I checked valve clearance. All were within specs except one exhaust valve that was a little tight. It still had .005 clearance. I did not adjust that valve. I ran bike in dark and looked for spark or arching, have pulled ever connection and looked for corrosion. I pulled on the harness trying to find a broke wire. I have notice the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator are damn hot. They get hot within 1 minute of running. I checked voltage coming form stator and it's 56-57 across the board at 4k rpms. The ohm are .03 or .003 depending on what setting I'm using. So I believe the coils are not shorted or open, is that correct ? With a volt meter on the battery the voltage is 13.9-14.1 from idle thru a rev up. Disconnecting the headlight does not make much of a difference. Does that sound like the regulator is working correctly ? The battery has 12.7 volts and maintains it overnight. I checked 3 stator wires and connectors and they seem fine. Also, would the regulator not working right cause a miss in the coils or injectors ? I know the voltage for coils can be touchy. Any help is really appreciated. I've been talking with a local service manager ( he's a sportbike guy by nature) and he's kinda clueless. But I just found the stator wire issue. The bike is in excellent condition, hasn't seem much rain, always cleaned, never wrecked.
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post #18 of 21 Old 05-21-2017, 06:16 PM
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3 things needed for combustion, spark, air and fuel.

I'd dance around the coils to see if you can get rid of the miss. Better yet, even, pick up a set on fleabay and swap them in, dance them through to see if the miss goes away.

One of the plugs should look fouled if there is a miss, or if there is too much fuel (bad Fuel regulator) but you could also have a clogged or dirty injector not putting in the right amount of fuel.

I'd stick to making sure you're getting the fuel and spark you need for combustion as that will likely get you to the root cause faster.

I had an F4i that developed a miss over time and i was replacing plugs every 100-200 miles. fleabay coils and plugs never fixed it. Ended up replacing the FPR and all was right again in the world.
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post #19 of 21 Old 05-21-2017, 08:21 PM
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Random thought, have you checked the "joint connectors" taped up in the main harness on the left side of the bike? They can corrode and cause all kinds of electrical problems. I would also say that its time to do a compression test and then a leakdown (positive pressure) test on each cylinder. This will tell you a lot about the overall health of the motor, and it will confirm that mechanically everything is ok. If its all good, then keep chasing the electrical gremlins. Another simple test is to use a spray water bottle and mist the exhaust headers a few times as the bike warms up. If one pipe is cooler than the others you will notice.

A 1st Gen Ten will eat the hearts of grown men.
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post #20 of 21 Old 05-22-2017, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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I've changed the stick coils, injectors and throttle body. Did a compression test and leak down and posted those results earlier in the post. I haven't checked any joint connection but I'll do that. My guess is as clean as the wiring has been I'm not gonna find much but I'm up for checking anything. I think I'll be ordering an ecu soon.
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