Gen 1: 2004-2005 Factory Pro Shift kit install - Kawasaki
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post #1 of 3 Old 10-22-2017, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Factory Pro Shift kit install

Not a whole lot of info on these, so I decided to post up my experience.

It started with my 2012 ZX6 endurance bike. We lost 3rd gear (Wouldn't hold under power, very hard to shift from 2-3). Had a couple people say that the factory pro shift kit was basically a requirement for the 09-12 ZX6. Had no idea what it I went to google. Put in a new transmission, with the shift kit, and have been loving life since. Decided to get one for the ZX10 as well, as I've had a couple of missed shifts.

Here's the website, I encourage you to read up/google yourself. I'm not here to sell it, just some first gen specific notes I had from my install.

</title> <title>FactoryPro Shift Kits, detent arm

MOST IMPORTANTLY: You need to make a "custom" 27mm impact socket. Removing the clutch basket is mandatory for the install, but most impact sockets do not have the socket sides extend all the way to the very end of the socket. THIS IS the clutch hub nuts do NOT have much surface area to grip onto. The end of the nut is crimped/smashed by design (lock nut) and it is VERY EASY to round off the clutch hub nut if you're not careful. This same nut is used on 1st gen's, 4th gens, 5th gens, and the 09-17 ZX6/636. Probably the same for Gen 2-3, but I can't first hand verify that. I got 27mm socket from Harbor Freight and using an angle grinder, ground down the face of the socket so that the 27mm walls go literally all the way to the edge of the socket, making it nearly impossible to round off the clutch hub nut.

Again this is not a step by step, installing this requires basic wrenching knowledge and general mechanical ineptitude. If you need to be told how to remove the clutch cover, this job isn't for you.

Unique tools needed for job:

Custom 27mm socket
Clutch hub holder
Snap ring pliers with 90 degree tips (small tips, that snap ring is very small)


- Get yourself a small M4 bolt to pull out the clutch basket needle bearing. After zipping off the clutch hub nut, you can't just pull out the basket because of clearance issues. Thread in the M4 bolt into the needle bearing, and you can remove the needle bearing, which will then give you the clearance needed to move the basket just enough to pull it off the engine.

It's a pain on the 1st gen, but you HAVE to remove the oil pan, which requires header removal. You have to do all that for the one little c clip that holds the shift shaft in place. You can reuse the oil pan gasket, I did on mine and have no leaks or weeping.

Seating the spring to the shift detent arm that holds the shift star in place takes patience. The best method that I found was to thread in the shift arm bolt 4-5 turns by hand, then getting a large flat head screw driver and pre loading the detent arm while running in the bolt with your other hand. It will be very obvious if the collar isn't seated into the detent arm. Just come to terms that you won't get it the first time...or probably the second time.

I would recommend getting the stiffer spring and detent arm. I ran my endurance bike both with the OEM spring and the other spring, and can confirm there is a noticeable difference.

Shifting quality is literally night and day. Crisp, clean shifts, both up and down. When you shift, there is no doubt it's fully engaged into the next gear. These bikes should have shifted like this from the factory.

Last thing of note: With the Kawi transmissions, you will not be able to "dry run" the gears up and down after assembly. So if you try to ensure everything is kosher by spinning the rear tire on the rear stand, upshifting/downshifting through all the gears, you won't be able to. I talked to Marc (owner of factory pro) and he said that's normal with the Kawasaki's. I was kind of worried, as this job is a little more involved than it is on my '12 ZX6 (where you do everything from the clutch side, no oil pan pulling needed), but mine worked great once I test rode it.
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post #2 of 3 Old 10-23-2017, 08:32 AM
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I found an easier way to deal with the spring, itself, that worked pretty well.

What I did was to assemble the bolt, guide, and spring while it was on my workbench.

So far, so good. At this point, walk up to a shelf, in the garage, made from metal...(im not crazy, it will make sense)

Hold the bolt and spring in place , and make sure the spring is around its guide. Compress spring against the metal shelf, and hold it in place.

With your third hand, use a piece of safety wire (or small zip ty) to hold the spring in its collapsed position. From there its easy to get the bolt started into its threaded hole. Get it to where its about 1 turn from fully tight, then cut the safety wire (or zip ty).

Thats it. Be sure to not let any parts of the wire stay behind, obviously. Put the rest back together, and enjoy the improved shifting.

Like you said, that positive neutral finder prevents you from testing your work, but theres not much you can do about that.

The kit is well worth its asking price. It would be even if you had to pay someone to install it.

I only did the spring, and its a brilliant mod.

Last edited by rcannon; 10-23-2017 at 09:36 AM.
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post #3 of 3 Old 10-23-2017, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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That's actually an ingenious idea! I never even thought of that, but yeah, that would make the install 100x easier. could possibly use channel locks, or vice grips and compress the spring that way? Set the vice grips loose enough that it only compresses the spring enough to install it without hassle, safety wire it, unlock vice grips, install spring, cut safety wire.
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