Gen 2: 2006-2007 Can I test my voltage regulator with a multimeter? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 30 Old 07-26-2017, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Can I test my voltage regulator with a multimeter?

The manual says that a special tool (Kawasaki Hand Tester 57001-1394) is required to test the voltage regulator/rectifier and that using a multimeter may damage the unit. Is this true? I don't have a multimeter with 12V battery in it or anything, it's just a little ol' thing if you know what I mean.

What is the best way to test it? My battery is not charging. Bike has 12k miles on the money, so I'm hoping it's not the stator and want to check the voltage regulator first. What's the best way to do this?
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post #2 of 30 Old 07-26-2017, 10:46 PM
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I wouldn't hesitate to use a multimeter to fault find on my bike, although I have experience using one, and would recommend carefully understanding what's what before touching connections.

If needed, here's a good guide to diagnose the health of your charging system

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf
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post #3 of 30 Old 07-27-2017, 09:07 AM
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I am pretty sure when my stator went out that I tested it with a cheapo volt-meter from harbor freight. I can't remeber the steps I used to test it though, I'm pretty sure I followed what's in the service manual.
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post #4 of 30 Old 07-27-2017, 11:39 AM
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Could swear my manual said to use a Voltmeter. I use Haynes Manuals, whats yours? But yea i tested mine with one, i think many of us have???

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post #5 of 30 Old 07-27-2017, 06:00 PM
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Just a suggestion, maybe better to start at the charging source end and confirm its not the stator? It`s only 3 measurements and you can use your regular voltmeter. My stator went at almost exactly the same milage as you have BTW.

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post #6 of 30 Old 07-28-2017, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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I'm using the Kawasaki Service Manual. I'll just start poking around with my multimeter. I thought what they said about the special tool was bullshit anyway.
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post #7 of 30 Old 07-28-2017, 03:43 PM
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Wow....why do you guys do it the hard way?

Take your voltmeter and put it across the battery terminals when the bike is running. If it reads 12v or less then the battery is not being charged. Not sure what the operating voltage on a bike is but I'm assuming it should be 13.8-14v, like on a car.

From my experience, a voltage regulator usually ( I said usually) allows the battery to over charge when it's faulty.
So, I'm going to take an educated guess here and say your stator is the culprit.....
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post #8 of 30 Old 07-28-2017, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blutzsr View Post
Wow....why do you guys do it the hard way?

Take your voltmeter and put it across the battery terminals when the bike is running. If it reads 12v or less then the battery is not being charged. Not sure what the operating voltage on a bike is but I'm assuming it should be 13.8-14v, like on a car.

From my experience, a voltage regulator usually ( I said usually) allows the battery to over charge when it's faulty.
So, I'm going to take an educated guess here and say your stator is the culprit.....
This sounds very similar to what I did. It'll tell ya in the service manual what it should be charging at.

And at 12K is around the mileage that a lot of people were starting to have trouble with their stators. Mine went out around 22K-25K if I remember correctly. My situation was horrible, was stranded in the middle of no where at night, in the rain about an hour away from home.
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post #9 of 30 Old 07-28-2017, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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I already checked voltage across the battery terminals and know that at 5000 RPM the alternator should put out 14 volts, per the manual. This is the whole reason for the post. I'm trouble shooting from there back, so I suppose I should have prefaced my post about not being an idiot.

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post #10 of 30 Old 07-28-2017, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Hell, I was hoping for the regulator to be bad only because I thought it was a lot cheaper to replace, but it's only a $50 difference.

I like $50 as much as anyone, it's just not what I expected.
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