Gen 2: 2006-2007 Can I test my voltage regulator with a multimeter? - Page 3 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #21 of 30 Old 09-04-2017, 09:42 AM
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If you were not an idiot, then you would already know the answer to your question. Ohm's law applies to even motorcycles, believe it or not....
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post #22 of 30 Old 09-04-2017, 10:49 AM
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I had the exact same problem with pretty close to the exact same miles on my bike. I have pretty close to $13,000 and then my bike died because there was no more juice. I pulled the owner's manual and tested the rectifier with a multimeter and it was actually the stator that went out. I would recommend to check the stator first and then the rectifier. I have a 2008 ZX10R and that seems the stator goes out right around that mileage is what I've read up on.
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post #23 of 30 Old 09-05-2017, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Blutzsr View Post
If you were not an idiot, then you would already know the answer to your question. Ohm's law applies to even motorcycles, believe it or not....
Wow, guy with 17 posts comes preaching about Ohm's law and me being an idiot when you he can't even read the whole thread and understand that the problem has been solved WITH a multimeter, and the stator is bad per my tests. Bringing up old, dead threads, and calling people idiots is really just in bad taste. Welcome to the forum.
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post #24 of 30 Old 09-05-2017, 05:09 PM
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if you have way more or less than 13.8-14v at the battery during idle, your rectifier (AND potentially, stator) are bad. After that test, you want to unhook the stator plug to the rectifier, and hold RPM to 4000rpm and you should see something like 60V AC. The Stator produces AC, and the rectifier/regulator converts to DC. I literally just did this this weekend at the race track when my rectifier cooked.

You should always also check your stator as they can both go at the same time.
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post #25 of 30 Old 09-05-2017, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JayBoCC2 View Post
if you have way more or less than 13.8-14v at the battery during idle, your rectifier (AND potentially, stator) are bad. After that test, you want to unhook the stator plug to the rectifier, and hold RPM to 4000rpm and you should see something like 60V AC. The Stator produces AC, and the rectifier/regulator converts to DC. I literally just did this this weekend at the race track when my rectifier cooked.

You should always also check your stator as they can both go at the same time.
Thanks for the advice. It's looking like just the stator unless I tested wrong. Here's to hoping, since the rectifier is another expensive part.

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post #26 of 30 Old 09-11-2017, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
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Wow, guy with 17 posts comes preaching about Ohm's law and me being an idiot when you he can't even read the whole thread and understand that the problem has been solved WITH a multimeter, and the stator is bad per my tests. Bringing up old, dead threads, and calling people idiots is really just in bad taste. Welcome to the forum.
I read the thread and also know that it's an old thread. I was just putting you in check for being a dick towards some of the guys that were trying to help you. Since when does somebody's post count equal more knowledge? I may not know everything about bikes, but I DO know electricity, not everything but it appears I know more about that than you.
The funny thing is: you solved the problem the same way I suggested, but it took several other people to tel you the same thing.
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post #27 of 30 Old 09-12-2017, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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You're the one calling people idiots. Name calling is the lowest form of child's play. And I might be a dick, but I'm in good company and we all generally get along around here.

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post #28 of 30 Old 09-15-2017, 08:56 PM
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You're the one calling people idiots. Name calling is the lowest form of child's play. And I might be a dick, but I'm in good company and we all generally get along around here.

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My apologies...I should have called you a dick and not an idiot. Sorry bro!
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post #29 of 30 Old 09-15-2017, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilaugust View Post
You're the one calling people idiots. Name calling is the lowest form of child's play. And I might be a dick, but I'm in good company and we all generally get along around here.

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My apologies....I should have called you a dick and not an idiot...my bad!
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post #30 of 30 Old 09-16-2017, 04:48 AM
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My apologies....I should have called you a dick and not an idiot...my bad!
I`m tired of seeing your name in my inbox. Why don`t you move along. You came here with an attitude already in your first sentence, and proceeded to show your ignorance by recommending replacing a part based on guesswork.

You are missing the whole point of this thread so I`ll explain it to you real easy. It`s about kawasakis notice in the service manual stating that other meters than kawis analog one may not show the correct calibrated results to diagnose a RR failure, or a high current capacity meter may fry the RR. You do know how resistance is measured, right? The question has absolutely nothing to do with ohms law. It`s about meters. The RR measuring procedure is the only place in the whole manual that states this warning. So that was the concern here. Now let this thread die you`re not doing anyone any favor.
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Last edited by GreenOne; 09-16-2017 at 05:14 AM.
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