Cam Chain Tensioner problem - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 26 Old 03-02-2017, 03:21 AM
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What about the aftermarket options to replace the oem. Has anyone done that?
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post #12 of 26 Old 03-03-2017, 09:36 AM
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The hell with the dealers. If it is the same tensioner as the 11-15, you can manually adjust. Pull it out and pull the plunger a click or two out. It's a one way plunger. I would say go one click at a time. If you can't install the tensioner back in, you've probably pulled it out too far. But, if the thing doesn't fully seat (1-2 mm gap), toss the bolts in and tighten them down. Did this on a bike, got rid of the noise.
On my '11 that was the fix. It never did self-adjust and finally the racket became so bad I pulled it off and adjusted to the next notch manually and then reinstalled. Noise all gone now and it purrs like a kitten. I also noticed a nice increase in low end throttle response after the adjust and smoother idling. In my opinion, KHI needs to get their act together and design an automatic CCT that actually works, way too many threads on this subject on the internet.
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post #13 of 26 Old 03-03-2017, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Nfamous60 View Post
What about the aftermarket options to replace the oem. Has anyone done that?
Yes. Screw auto tensioners.
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post #14 of 26 Old 03-03-2017, 12:48 PM
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Sorry slightly off topic, but you know it is recommended to pull the cam cover off and zip tie the cam chain to the cam before you ever pull out a cam chain adjuster...This is to avoid the risk of the chain jumping a cam sprocket tooth and messing up the timing when the tension is reduced.

My question is, is there a position that you can put the engine in, so as to avoid having to do this? Is there a position where the chain is the most taut and so is less likely to jump?

APE say to put the piston position at TDC...Is this the reason?

Thanks.
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post #15 of 26 Old 03-03-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 10Arghh View Post
Sorry slightly off topic, but you know it is recommended to pull the cam cover off and zip tie the cam chain to the cam before you ever pull out a cam chain adjuster...This is to avoid the risk of the chain jumping a cam sprocket tooth and messing up the timing when the tension is reduced.

My question is, is there a position that you can put the engine in, so as to avoid having to do this? Is there a position where the chain is the most taut and so is less likely to jump?

APE say to put the piston position at TDC...Is this the reason?

Thanks.
Yes, APE instructions refer to TDC specifically for this reason. I've installed mine (Pro version) using this method and it was a breeze.
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post #16 of 26 Old 03-03-2017, 04:14 PM
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Yes, APE instructions refer to TDC specifically for this reason. I've installed mine (Pro version) using this method and it was a breeze.
Thanks
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post #17 of 26 Old 03-03-2017, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen-Eric View Post
My bike started making the clicking noise at about 300 miles and only got worse through 1000 miles. I self diagnosed/assumed it was the CCT based on a youtube video posted by another forum member, and all the complaints about the CCT. My dealer finally decided to replace it under warranty, and I confirmed on their parts order that the part they ordered was a different part number than the original CCT. It's the same part # that OEM parts sites now show - something like a bunch of 99999-999

12048A
TENSIONER-ASSY
12048-0096[old] 99999-0573[new]

One of the techs said the new part is actually the tensioner from their older models, I think pre-2016. My point here is maybe the dealer put in the bad tensioner, part # 12048-0096

Anyways, after the dealer replaced the tensioner, the issue is gone, and now my bike sounds like an old MAC truck ;)
This is correct. The new part number is similar to the Gen 4 style CCT. They said the original 16 style was putting too much tension on the chain.
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post #18 of 26 Old 03-09-2017, 04:18 PM
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No, the position of the pistons will not affect the tension on the chain. The way I did it which is the easiest and guarantees accuracy is to clean the oil off the cam sprockets and the chain and put a line in white out or permanant marker across the sprocket and chain. Then just remove the cams, do your work, put them back in and adjust the teeth on the chain until the lines line up. The only thing you need to be careful of is dropping the chain down in the motor. Let me know if you have any questions, I know the motor and the work pretty good.
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post #19 of 26 Old 03-12-2017, 09:27 AM
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Then just remove the cams
This seems like complete unnecessary overkill.

Why not just zip tie the chain to to the cams (do both cams if you really have to), the chain won't then move when you take out the CCT and your timing won't be thrown out.

Unless you're doing your valve adjustment at the same time, I wouldn't be taking out cams to fit a CCT.
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post #20 of 26 Old 03-12-2017, 02:38 PM
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I've installed a few of the APE manual CCT's I've never removed the cams.

It's a easy like 1/2hr job. Remove the old one, install the new, adjust, done.

Nothing more to it.

Might have to remove the one rad hose, no need to drain rad, just remove hose
for extra room.

If you are removing cam's for valve adjust the best thing to do is to just
mark cam/chain with paint pen put a couple on a couple of bungee cords on the chain to keep tension.
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