Gen 4: 2011-2015 Anyone have some suspension geometry advice - Page 3 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 27Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 07:00 AM
GP Rider
 
evallarta1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Collinsville IL (by St Louis)
Posts: 1,409
Posting Frequency
      
Quote:
Originally Posted by ukzx10r View Post
Good thread.
I have something to add. I am 6 foot 4 tall and weight 15 stone which is a bit heavy for fast riding.
However im always quite fast on track but this comes with a few issues for me.
I always have issues with corner exit and always suffer with terrible rear tyre wear on every bike ive had on track.
Mines a gen4 and i found it terribly unstable. Always shaking its head and getting into some odd shapes.
Ive designed the damper valves to replace the motor and its cured the unstable feeling all together and ive lengthened the chain and it might have made a fraction of difference.
Next thing im going to do is fit linier link. Fit a stiffer rear spring and drop the front and raise the rear.
My front wear is absolutely spot on but because the rear is soo bad i am hoping to take a bit if wear off it and transfer it to the front.
I will watch this thread for more info
Your issue is not the damper, or linkage, but insufficient support in the rear. When you accelerate the bike squats causing the front to lift giving it a "chopper" affect. The excessive trail gives you too much grip causing the bike to drive wide. The bad tire wear is from your lack of grip on side of the tire (no swingarm angle), is causing you to wait til you start to stand the bike up, then once you feel grip you wack the throttle and tear the tire. If you put swingarm angle in the bike it will allow you to get on the throttle earlier and ROLL instead of wack displacing the power throughout the tire range.

The instability in the front is from not enough spring support in the back. When you wack the throttle the bike over pitches to the back causing the front to come up too quick and give a "light" feel. Add some preload and get some swingarm angle in the bike and you shouldn't need a damper....

Stupidity and Motivation are a dangerous combination

Velocity Calibrations
evallarta1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 07:04 AM
GP Rider
 
evallarta1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Collinsville IL (by St Louis)
Posts: 1,409
Posting Frequency
      
Quote:
Originally Posted by skidooboy View Post
thanks for the tutorial EV!

where would one source a 10mm spacer, to add to the rear height?

sounds like the poor mans street bike acceptable set up for turning (think deals gap, or Ozarks type of riding) without buying offset triples, would be a 10mm spacer in the rear shock mount, and to expose 10mm more of the fork tubes?

it appears now approx. 4mm of tube is showing now (stock), are you suggesting 14mm total, or 10mm total fork tube showing?

again, thanks for the info. rep sent your way! Ski
The examples were just that, examples. There are a BUNCH more variables that need to be taken into account than just raise rear, lower front. Tire diameter, wheel base, and swingarm length all MUST be taken into account.

What you should take away from this is the Gen 4 needs to be raised in the rear, lowered in the front, in my opinion. How much of each will vary from bike to bike, and rider to rider.

As to your original question you can stack washers on the post of the shock mount to get the desired height. That's what we did in this rider's situation. We just used a washer kit I have on hand.

Stupidity and Motivation are a dangerous combination

Velocity Calibrations
evallarta1 is offline  
post #23 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 07:07 AM
GP Rider
 
evallarta1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Collinsville IL (by St Louis)
Posts: 1,409
Posting Frequency
      
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos76 View Post
Think that Evallatra is not directly suggesting 10mm shim (+20 raise) and droping front too much, but just showing what other numbers those adjustments would affect??
Bike would lift rear wheel easy with changes that much and problems having weight bias.
Offset triples are maybe last toutch to get bike perfect after suspention is well sorted. Do I really NEED them: probably no. Do I WANT them to test out: hell yeah.

Wasn't good member Dricked using aftermarket triples on his race Gen4? Wonder what's was his experience.
You are correct, the post were examples, BUT I will tell you that you have to raise the rear quite high to get a good swingarm angle. You mentioned 12 degrees of swingarm angle earlier, for me, thats too shallow, I would probably start around 12.5.

And like you mentioned, triples are really needed to get the bike completely dialed in. AND WHO DOESNT LOVE TRIPLE TREE BLING!?!?!?!?

Stupidity and Motivation are a dangerous combination

Velocity Calibrations
evallarta1 is offline  
 
post #24 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 08:48 AM
WSB Rider
 
skidooboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: michigan
Posts: 553
Posting Frequency
 
I understood what you meant Ev. I had to do the same thing with my 13 zx6r 636 track /racebike... raise the rear, lower the front.

I run Pirelli super corsa SC's on the track/race bike, and the SP's on my 13 zx10r so your measurements above would be similar to my situation.

bling is nice no doubt but, I am not chasing .0001 on the track or street so 8-1100 for triples isn't on the radar. in a "real world scenario" what would you suggest? front, rear?

if you would prefer to pm, I understand. thanks again. Ski

May we all, get to have a chance to ride the fast one, walk away wiser when we crash one, keep hopin that the best one is the last one.
skidooboy is offline  
post #25 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 09:14 AM
GP Rider
 
evallarta1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Collinsville IL (by St Louis)
Posts: 1,409
Posting Frequency
      
Quote:
Originally Posted by skidooboy View Post
I understood what you meant Ev. I had to do the same thing with my 13 zx6r 636 track /racebike... raise the rear, lower the front.

I run Pirelli super corsa SC's on the track/race bike, and the SP's on my 13 zx10r so your measurements above would be similar to my situation.

bling is nice no doubt but, I am not chasing .0001 on the track or street so 8-1100 for triples isn't on the radar. in a "real world scenario" what would you suggest? front, rear?

if you would prefer to pm, I understand. thanks again. Ski
Money is always a factor unfortunately.

Again there are SO many variables, but if it were my bike and I didnt have the geometry machine, I would probably lower the front as much as possible while allowing the bike to not hit hard parts. The rear is tough, maybe start with raising the rear 5 mm and see how it feels. Then experiment with different heights in the rear and see what works for ya.

Stupidity and Motivation are a dangerous combination

Velocity Calibrations
evallarta1 is offline  
post #26 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 09:21 AM
GP Rider
 
mpp12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,237
Posting Frequency
 
I had to lower the front 5mm, and Thermosman, gave me at super price a Nitron pro shock and the bike is 10x better...

I think is just a couple of mm longer than stock.
mpp12 is offline  
post #27 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 09:33 AM
WSB Rider
 
skidooboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: michigan
Posts: 553
Posting Frequency
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by evallarta1 View Post
Money is always a factor unfortunately.
Speed is a matter of money... How fast do you want to go? ski
evallarta1 likes this.

May we all, get to have a chance to ride the fast one, walk away wiser when we crash one, keep hopin that the best one is the last one.
skidooboy is offline  
post #28 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 09:48 AM
GP Rider
 
evallarta1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Collinsville IL (by St Louis)
Posts: 1,409
Posting Frequency
      
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpp12 View Post
I had to lower the front 5mm, and Thermosman, gave me at super price a Nitron pro shock and the bike is 10x better...

I think is just a couple of mm longer than stock.
Nitron has some nice stuff.

Stupidity and Motivation are a dangerous combination

Velocity Calibrations
evallarta1 is offline  
post #29 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 10:01 AM
GP Rider
 
mpp12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,237
Posting Frequency
 
Nitron transformed my bike.
mpp12 is offline  
post #30 of 68 Old 03-04-2017, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 164
Posting Frequency
 
So evallarta,

Can you give me a baseline with my situation of Bitubo rear shock and OEM front set up?

I know you can't be precise, but if I lowered the front 5mm like mpp, what ride height should I set the Bitubo to given that 310mm is stock on that shock.

Thanks again for all the help and contributing to this thread.
10Arghh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki ZX-10R.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome