Noticed an issue over the last few hundred miles, essentially 3/4 WOT or up trying to shift from 1st to 2nd gear using the QS for whatever reason between 6k-8k RPM the shifter won't move at all. Imagine trying to shift up from 6th gear (like it won't budge) if i continue to hold the throttle open pass this point and don't roll off once it hits 10k it will shift with no issues at all. And if i just hold off shifting earlier and shift after 9K-ish RPM it will shift no issues.
Bike hasn't been tuned and has a 3/4 arrow system on. I've tried moving the shifter around height wise but the issue is still there...any thoughts???
I have a similar issue, stock exhaut, flashed & tuned. going WOT in first, it won't let me into second gear when I'm around 10-11K RPM.
Someone more tech savvy could probably help us with this issue.
Perhaps someone with more knowledge can confirm/correct me but I was told to not use qs for 1-2 as the gear ratio is very different and it puts stress on box. 2-3 3-4 etc are close ratio and it's easier to shift. I'd use clutch 1-2 then row the gears with qs
I don't see how preloading the shifter would cause any problem and I think it's a good habit of getting into as long as you don't apply too much force to trigger the sensor.
The more important thing is we don't actually have an answer to the OP's question. Why would the bike not shift at that RPM range, anything in the manual? I doubt this problem would occur with an aftermarket sensor.
I disagree, of course. Preloading the shifter is NOT good habit. It's bad habit. You've obviously never torn into a sequential gear transmission to understand how they work.
The constant mess gear pairs slide along a bar and engage each other on the side. In order to do that, a shift fork moves them. The gears are always spinning, but the shift forks do not. Preloading the gear shift linkage causes the stationary shift fork to sit against the spinning gear pairs. If you don't think that will prematurely cause the shift forks to heat up, bend, and wear out, you're wrong. And doing that with a quickshifter in the loop can cause the switch to be tripped, interrupt the ignition, and all without the proper force on the shift linkage to begin with. In race conditions, with an engine teardown and rebuild every race or so or when crucial milliseconds are measured, it might gain you something. For all other people, preloading the shifter just causes you to post threads on here asking other people why your shit don't shift right. :idea:
No need to preload with a QS, you're risking engaging the sensor and or it not working when you go to shift. Just push/pull on the shifter and bang through the gears.
After two seasons on my bike the transmission/clutch were absolutely fine with no abnormal wear and no parts were replaced. I replaced the clutch in the third season just because.
How many miles you got on it? I'm at 27,000km so far with no gearbox issues. I have however experienced problems when I had the QS ignition kill times screwed up by confusing one timing setting with another. This would cause the shifter to cut and reignite before the shift actually happened, sticking it in the same gear even though it blipped, would get a big jolt doing it and nearly throw me off the bike.
Is it possibly the sensor or ecu has freaked out and for some reason the QS thinks you're in 6th gear, so it's not compressing, stopping you from shifting up?
Hey Siwa, did you manage to work out the kill times to stop this from happening? Im getting the same issue around 6 - 8k 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th on WOT...I'm getting BC to check it out Wednesday.
Gents, I too had this issue with my gen 5, when changing from 3rd to 4th under heavy acceleration the QS wouldn't cut the ignition, and i wasn't able to go into 4th... this happens around 8k i think....
I thought it might have been the QS, so I had the Woolich QS installed and the Woolich tune flash the ECU.
Unfortunately I still have this issue from time to time... I've learnt to live with it.
Yup. This is a known issue in the Gen5. 4,5,6 gears randomly refuse to shift with the stock QS sometimes at high Rpm's (>7000). Don't know if someone with a Corodona QS have overcome this.
Shifting up, i dont use it till going to 4th
down i dont use it 3rd to 1st
seems to work fine this way.
Although i have experienced it not wanting to go up at times.
I think the angle of the shift lever can improve this,, Perhaps lower it abit
OEM pegs, there is substantial play in the shiftrod as others have mentioned. I?ve tried moving the position around. Issue still there. Seems really only predominant in 1st gear under heavy acceleration.
have you been able to sort out your qs issue? I just had R&G rear sets installed today, thinking it was the factory items were worn and causing this, unfortunately its still there.
Had a play with it again today. Time and time again 1st gear at 6-9k won’t shift. Tried turning of TC thinking that may have been impacting something, exact same issue. Turned off the QS and went old school shifting and it was butter. Must be QS module or ECU...I guess.
okay, so when you turned off QS on the dash, did you then shift with the clutch lever? or with out?
To be honest I don't think its the QS module, if the QS is working in other gears I'd say it was fine, what I have found is that even with a Woolich QS, R&G rearsets and woolich flash, I still get this at around 5000rpm - 6000rpm 3/4 hard acceleration....
I actually think its a factory fault with the ECU, I also believe it can be tuned out with a modification to kill times and other parameters within the QS settings in the woolich system, I just think its going to take some trial and error.
Ive have the center of the shift peg about 2 inches lower than foot peg center point.. It seems to be better now..
i get better leverage on the peg.. Only went for a short ride though
Purchased my 2013 zx10r new. Now has 23k miles. This bike has always been difficult to downshift using clutch.
It downshifts well when gear matching without using clutch.
Purchased my 2013 zx10r new. Now has 23k miles. This bike has always been difficult to downshift using clutch.
It downshifts well when gear matching without using clutch.
Seriously, for my bike, going to a 15 t sprocket from 17 t cured the KQS problems.. Still 39 @ the rear...It was flawless today all but one shift.. I was in 4th shifting up at midrange while rpms were climbing fast
I just work the throttle when the QS doesn't let it shift. I clutchless shifted my Gen 3 so it's like second nature to just do it now on my Gen 5 when this happens. :wink2:
i never KQS from 1st - 2nd.also noticed the auto blipper does not like the 2nd-1st .
personally i clutch and blip from 2-1.
not sure if its designed to be in first gear for advanced riding.short shift to 2 and gun it use the torque for corner exits.
the traction gets.
ZX10r 2016 winter test , wollich E.C.U flash akro link and end can. 191rwhp.. auto blip enabled
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