-2 front vs -1 frt +3 rear - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-10-2017, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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-2 front vs -1 frt +3 rear

So if I understand this right this is essentially nets the same result in gearing except the -2 on stock chain forces rear axle back. -1 frt +3 needs extended chain? I say this to compare result to what I currently have and gearing threads I've found.

I ask this because I bought my bike gen4 with -2 frt already on it and all I have to compare to was my 07 cbr1000rr stock gearing and it was balanced good for street. and I'm unsure if I like it honestly. It surges in town and hard to modulate throttle. Anyone else has experience with this gearing? I have the stock sprocket but 110mph 1st great is overkill. I was thinking go -1 front to start. At 80mph I'm at 6000rpm which is not too bad. Looking for suggestions? I'm not a fan of riding wheelies at all mostly Twisties no track days. Thanks

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post #2 of 11 Old 10-10-2017, 04:11 PM
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Has your ECU been flashed with the throttle cut option turned off yet? If not, you are most likely mistaking the difficulty to modulate the throttle with gearing when it's an issue with the stock ECU's emissions related throttle cut.

To elaborate, I'm running a -1/0 gearing set-up and with my throttle cut turned off the bike is far smoother than stock.

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post #3 of 11 Old 10-10-2017, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschenut View Post
Has your ECU been flashed with the throttle cut option turned off yet? If not, you are most likely mistaking the difficulty to modulate the throttle with gearing when it's an issue with the stock ECU's emissions related throttle cut.

To elaborate, I'm running a -1/0 gearing set-up and with my throttle cut turned off the bike is far smoother than stock.
The ecu has been flashed by the first owner. I bought it from second owner. So I have no idea what flash it has.

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post #4 of 11 Old 10-10-2017, 07:23 PM
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-1 +1 on my gen4.. love it.. everything is great. Super smooth. Full cutoff in the ecu helps this as well.. but -2? Eeek.. I'd hate that

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post #5 of 11 Old 10-11-2017, 04:35 PM
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Town riding 17/39 does not work in stop go. Keep 17 and go try 41; if that doesn't work then go up one more tooth on rear and do the town test. This bike will do everything but often does need the rider to adjust stuff. -1 +3 should not need any chain change BUT may need a shorter chain alignment bolt in order to push up the rear axle a tad. If you need a shorter bolt simply take oem bolt to hardware and match size to a couple shorter bolts and test for a tire fit.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-12-2017, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Town riding 17/39 does not work in stop go. Keep 17 and go try 41; if that doesn't work then go up one more tooth on rear and do the town test. This bike will do everything but often does need the rider to adjust stuff. -1 +3 should not need any chain change BUT may need a shorter chain alignment bolt in order to push up the rear axle a tad. If you need a shorter bolt simply take oem bolt to hardware and match size to a couple shorter bolts and test for a tire fit.
Probably going to end up going -1 to start. At -2 frt I'm sitting at 6000rpm at 80mph. Speedlimit is 60 but to not get ran over I gotta hold that. So -1 frt /0 will meet me 5000rpm at 80mph?

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post #7 of 11 Old 10-12-2017, 03:51 PM
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-1 is great
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post #8 of 11 Old 10-13-2017, 09:10 AM
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gen4 is -1/0 gen5 0/+1

like that they are same overall...

I have found on bikes that if you geared them 2 short, for some reason beyond my understanding it does not get going, 2 long is bad but not as bad.

2 short is just revs but does not advance....
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-14-2017, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know what rpm 80mph is with -1f/0r?

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post #10 of 11 Old 10-14-2017, 01:40 PM
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Go to gearing commander

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