Gen4: Ohlins Electronically Controlled Shock - Page 5 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #41 of 253 Old 12-17-2012, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSZX10R o8 View Post
Hey, I just talked to Dan Kyle. Unfortunately we cant buy the electronics seperately. Well we can, but the cost is ridiculus as opposed to just buying a new shock for under $1400

Also, these shocks arnt programable by the average Joe racer. No touching the dampening at all. Install it & let it do its thing. As Bounce stated earlier.

Hmmm. Anybody want to buy a good used TTX for a G4? :-)
Way to jump in with both feet JDS Your my boy blue!
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post #42 of 253 Old 12-18-2012, 09:04 PM
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^^ No probs. Had to talk to Dan on a few others things that he cleared up.
Yours was a good question. If we could have sent our TTX's in for under $500 fitment it may have been worth the while.
Dan never did said how much it would actually cost. Just said it would be expensive. Probably best to see how the others like them. Ken Hills post is interesting.

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post #43 of 253 Old 12-19-2012, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSZX10R o8 View Post
Hmmm. Anybody want to buy a good used TTX for a G4? :-)
Well if you going to sell - send me a PM!!

Have a friend looking for a used TTX.

The ZX10R - You'll go blind from over-exposure due to it's pure awesomeness!
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post #44 of 253 Old 05-13-2013, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure if anybody has posted or picked up the following problems with the EC Shock.

If the bike has Error code 39 and FI light - the shock does not work and you will not have any active changes inside the shock.

Also

If you have a 2013 ZX10 with an Electronic Steering damper and remove the damper to fit a better one - and the bike give you an error - the shock does not work either.

Not sure what other error's will cause the shock to stop working.



Really wish the shock came with some software and cabling to test it to make sure it works - this has cost our team about 8 brand new rear tyres that got ripped to shreds before pin pointing the problem.

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post #45 of 253 Old 05-16-2013, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bounce View Post
really wish the shock came with some software and cabling to test it to make sure it works...


A.

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Samuel Beckett, Waiting for Godot
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post #46 of 253 Old 05-16-2013, 10:11 AM
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Installing mine today ;-)
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post #47 of 253 Old 05-17-2013, 08:06 AM
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Personally I think it is a valiant effort but... For a street rider or canyon carver it would be well suited.. On the track I think it may be too inconsistent. From what I read it adjusts depending on what TC level you have it set on. I have a Kyle Racing rear link and like the rear set firm so I can acceleration hard out of the corners. I usually run the TC in level one until the rear tire starts to wear. Then I go to TC level 2 to conserve the rear tire. (I run Pirelli SC 2 slicks). The problem I see with it constantly changing the damping according to the TC levelj is that I would worry about it being inconsistent. Probably a GREAT ideal for street riding. It can only adjust within certain parameters preset. When you are constantly changing the damping on the rear it also affects how the front end reacts. I would imagine it would greatly affect the front end feel...
for me it would be too inconsistent.
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post #48 of 253 Old 05-25-2013, 06:13 AM
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Just measured my sag, free sag is 15mm and rider sag is 27mm.
Do you think thats okay?

Newb on suspension, thats why i bought the mechatronic
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post #49 of 253 Old 05-26-2013, 07:23 AM
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I am also clueless about suspension. Does this shock allow you to set your sag where you feel its best and not worry about dampening? I've got the stock suspension on mine (im 215- 220lbs w/gear) and I had a suspension guy try to help me set it up at a track day. I'm not sure if it helped at all but he did tell me I was too big to dial in the stock shock. The front feels like it wants to slide out about mid corner to about 3/4 to the exit if I'm pushing it. Then for street riding when on roads with small bumps it feels like I'm straddling a 2x6. I often get bounced up off the seat over bumps especially when accelerating hard. The traction control kicks in a lot also going over small bumps in the road. The bumps are not noticeable at all in my car but on the bike it feels like hitting a baseball sized bump on the road or hitting washboard on a dirtbike. I don't want to buy a nice suspension and not be able to notice the difference. Or not be able to get it set right because I don't know what it should feel like and when to make adjustments.
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post #50 of 253 Old 05-26-2013, 08:32 AM
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Yeah mate, sag is spring related. A heavier rear spring would help a lot. With your front losing grip I would say your rear is squatting a lot causing under steer.
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