What is everybody using and what do you recommend?

Oh man you just had to go there. :headshake Try a quick search there should be quite a fw Threads for Oil.

I'm gonna switch to Mobil 1 4XT 10w40 at the next oil change.

i like the motul

I just squeeze a cat 'til its bodily fluids drain into the cases. http://zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16784 :lol:

fish oil, salmon fish oil if you will. :spit: BD

Motul 300V

fish oil, salmon fish oil if you will. :spit: BD :ot: BD, you old fugger you should be able to remember when bikes did come with fish oil in them~not funny! :fu2:

^^:moon: ^^ BD

i hear penzoil auto oil from your local walmart works as good as any oil, but I only use Motul 300V 10/40

kawasaki 10w 40 they did make the damn thing !

shell rotella t syn do a search on google.. AMAZING oil thats 14.00 a gallon at wal mart.

kawasaki 10w 40 they did make the damn thing ! Yeah, but they don't make the oil. It's probably just Penzoil in a green bottle.

Kawaski oil is made by castrol...

Suzuki 10/40 for me

Sorry! Castrol in a green bottle.

green bottle??????? hummm? ..u mean black? ..castrol pensoil whatever .......it still has to meet kawasaki specs and they designed the damn thing so good enough for me

motorex 5w40

anyone try the k&n oil filter too?

amsoil and purlator filter. Thats all you need to know. :eyecrazy:

I run Silkolene in mine :thumbsup:

+1 for mobil 1 cycle oil.

Amsoil

Use any good synthetic oil in the right viscosity and you will be just fine. How many people actually wear out the engine in a liter bike?

Kawaski oil is made by castrol... Not 100% sure, but I think it's Motul not Castrol. Either way, I used the Kawasaki dino oil for the first couple of changes, then went to Motul 300V 10w40. I use that or Maxima in all my bikes. Never had any problems and always make better than average #s on the dyno.

Not 100% sure, but I think it's Motul not Castrol. Either way, I used the Kawasaki dino oil for the first couple of changes, then went to Motul 300V 10w40. I use that or Maxima in all my bikes. Never had any problems and always make better than average #s on the dyno. Seems the Motul is quite popular. Now I just need to find some :cool:

Amsoil here! :thumbsup:

Repsol full synthetic....

Amsoil here as well.

After a long search my opinion is this: For long change intervals the AMSOIL is the best. The AMSOIL contains the most antirust-anticorossion ingredients. If you are going to change the oil at every 2000-3000 miles then the TORCO T4SR offering the best protection. TORCO uses the most antiwear ingredients. Comparison tests are placing the MOTUL 300V at the lower positions and the same goes for the BEL-RAY EXS. One of the most important factor is the heat resistant test and this is where the AMSOIL is the best. Now I am using the TORCO T4SR but for the next change i will use the AMSOIL. (ALWAYS full synthetic)

Always AMSOIL since the first oil change.

Mobile 1 mx4t 10w40 here

Golden Spectro semi synth.:beer:

Kawaski oil is made by castrol... Motul makes Kawi Synth

Rotella T

Silkolene here.

Rotella T :+1: Smooth shifting with the Rotella T Synthetic

Silkaline...smooth as silk baby!

Amsoil

Royal purpal anyone?

I use Kawi full synthetic by motul ...:thumbsup: :helmet:

Silkolene for me.:cool:

silkolene

Anyone mentioned extra virgin olive oil? mmm I don't get why people ask this. Good oil is good oil. Regardless of what bike, car, etc it's going on.

Fuchs Silkolene here...and loving it

Shell Rotella t 5-40 Wally-Mart

I've got like 130 miles on my 05 and I'm going full synthetic on the first change. I know a lot of folks who say that you should wait until you’ve got a couple of thousand miles on them before running full synthetic, but that’s BS. Your rings are fully seated after a couple of hundred miles and if that weren’t the case don’t you think something about it would be mentioned in the owners and service manuals?

I just changed my oil this morning and i went with amsoil and purlator filter.

Motul 300V 5w40

Golden Spectro semi synth.:beer: :+1:

shell rotella t syn do a search on google.. AMAZING oil thats 14.00 a gallon at wal mart. Whats more amazing is how well it works in a diesel engine,its intended use.

I've got like 130 miles on my 05 and I'm going full synthetic on the first change. I know a lot of folks who say that you should wait until you’ve got a couple of thousand miles on them before running full synthetic, but that’s BS. Your rings are fully seated after a couple of hundred miles and if that weren’t the case don’t you think something about it would be mentioned in the owners and service manuals? Check the Bel ray website, they sat NOT to use their EXS product until I believe 1000 miles or something close to that.Kawasakis owner manual doesnt even mention syn oil.In fact the kawi manual just mentions using an SE ,SF rated oil so you'd be fine with ANY current automotive oil as long as its not energy conserving but even thats not mentioned in the manual.

Honda GN 4 10/40

I read putting a tablespoon of honey in the oil makes the engine run really sweet!

Check the Bel ray website, they sat NOT to use their EXS product until I believe 1000 miles or something close to that.Kawasakis owner manual doesnt even mention syn oil.In fact the kawi manual just mentions using an SE ,SF rated oil so you'd be fine with ANY current automotive oil as long as its not energy conserving but even thats not mentioned in the manual. Thanks for the heads up Darren and I'll definitely check that out. You always hear from folks not to change to synthetic till 2000-3000 miles but they never have any good data to back up their claims.

yep !!

Synthetic

So amsoil or motul has the majority vote....now where can I get some amsoil. motul is available from ron ayers but amsoil? *edit. nevermind...superbike supply has it

Just look up Amsoil on the net and you can probably find a dealer near you

Whats more amazing is how well it works in a diesel engine,its intended use. True, however it meets specs and is a very good oil for bikes, I know many who use it!

I switched from Motul 300v to Amsoil for this race season and am very pleased the change!!!

True, however it meets specs and is a very good oil for bikes, I know many who use it! I must disagree, Rotella does NOT meet specs for the Ninja.The manual allows 10w30 thru 20w50.Nowhere in the manual does it say 15w40.If Kawasaki found out that you used this oil they could deny a engine warranty claim since this is a non recommended fluid as described in the warranty.Im sure theres a thousand guys that swear by the stuff but I'll stick with what the Kawasaki engineers that designed the engine recommend. Darren

I must disagree, Rotella does NOT meet specs for the Ninja.The manual allows 10w30 thru 20w50.Nowhere in the manual does it say 15w40. Darren 15w40 falls between 10w30 and 20w50. You said the manual allows 10w30 thru 20w50 so 15w40 meets those conditions. This is a snapshot from the repair manual. http://eclipse-x.com/ZX10R/oil.gif

I switched from Motul 300v to Amsoil for this race season and am very pleased the change!!! I'm running the 300V 5W40 now and may switch to Amsoil.:dontknow: Is this what your running Dash? http://www.oilsandlube.com/10w-40motorcycle.htm

Also found this in the manual. http://eclipse-x.com/ZX10R/oil1.gif

so do people usually go with amsoil 10w40 or 20w50? there website has both...take into account southern cali weather

10w40 is only rated to around 104*F so I'd say the 50 would be better for SoCal. We can see some pretty high temps sitting in traffic or heading out to the desert roads.

I'm running the 300V 5W40 now and may switch to Amsoil.:dontknow: Is this what your running Dash? http://www.oilsandlube.com/10w-40motorcycle.htm Dat's da stuff. PM or e-mail me Ruthless. D

I have been running Motul 300V in my last 2 bikes and love it. I have given thought to Amsoil but, does anyone in MotoGP run Amsoil? If not why, any thoughts about this? I know a lot of teams run Motul. It has been a few years but, I remember reading an article about oil and with a very good full synthetic you can gain 3-5 HP and I believe Motul was the top one at the time and that is why I originaly switched to Motul.

I have been running Motul 300V in my last 2 bikes and love it. I have given thought to Amsoil but, does anyone in MotoGP run Amsoil? If not why, any thoughts about this? I know a lot of teams run Motul. It has been a few years but, I remember reading an article about oil and with a very good full synthetic you can gain 3-5 HP and I believe Motul was the top one at the time and that is why I originaly switched to Motul. Where do you guys get your fancy oils??

JCPenny's. Most motorcycle shops carry good motor oil. Amsoil is usually via a dealer only.

I was running Repsol syn and it seemed fine but I switched to Castrol R4 SuperBike. This thing seems to shift even better. :badteeth:

Also found this in the manual. http://eclipse-x.com/ZX10R/oil1.gif So why in the world would anyone run 15W40 then? Its obvious here that Kawi engineers call for 10W40 for this engine.Good post Fred. Darren

I'd run 10w50 or something along those lines here in the south when it's over 100 in the summer. 100*F usually means 120*F on the roads.

SO is there a specific part number for amsoil??

www.amsoil.com can give you the number/email of your local dealer. They'll be glad to talk to you about your needs.

Silkaline full synthetic race is what im using its 13.00 a liter tho

Motul Factory Line 5w 40

Just put the Motul 300V in the new '06 @2250 miles, and I can already tell it runs better. Shifting is smoother, it might be mental, but I swear I can feel more power on acceleration. I love it....I am hooked on Motul :ayyy:

Im using dino Repsol here. Seems to shift better than dino suzuki oil.

belray full synth...its liquid gold scond chioce is motul

So why in the world would anyone run 15W40 then? Its obvious here that Kawi engineers call for 10W40 for this engine.Good post Fred. Darren Look at the chart...It also says you can use 20w50 in a certain temp range...A 15w40 bridges the gap between the two...If the atmospheric temps are within the range acceptable to both 20W50 and 10W40 then it is perfectly fine to use 15w40....There is nothing mysterious about 15W40 that makes it an unnacceptable viscosity choice....It's just not listed.

I was running Repsol syn and it seemed fine but I switched to Castrol R4 SuperBike. This thing seems to shift even better. :badteeth: used to run that in my busa..it ran real hard but the only thing i did notice is a bit more noisy motor..

ams oil

Amsoil for me, Use Amsoil Full Synthetic for everything and never had an engine fail me yet, I just bought 2 more cases yesterday, I trust Amsoil..

Amsoil for me, Use Amsoil Full Synthetic for everything and never had an engine fail me yet, I just bought 2 more cases yesterday, I trust Amsoil.. Same here, bought Amsoil by the case.

Amsoil here as well. Changed to Amsoil at 477 miles and no problems. I have almost 6000 miles on it now.

if u want amsoil and use quite a bit, just pay the fee to become a preferred customer and get a discount. it costs hardly anything for a year, or u can become a dealer and get even better discount. u can then also earn a commission on whatever oil u sell.either way its well worth the fee.

Golden Spectro semi synth.:beer: +1 for ^^^^:thumbsup:

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 10/30 on my R-1 and all my other previous bikes. Never have had a problem with it and have been using silkolene full synthetic on my 06 ZX-10R.

Amsoil 10w-40

Royal purpal anyone? used this 90% of the time on my ZX-9R

guys........I ran amsoil (non-moly) in my yami R1 for a season, then stored the bike in my kitchen for the winter (free-heat!). I decided to change the oil in the spring, which I did, I got one ride in and the the clutch started to slip...not bad but it sucked. Everyone said are you sure it was w/o moly,and of course it was. So basically I have only run your basic cheap 10-40 kawi oil since day one in my 10R. BTW my R1 only had ~4000k on the odo, and I don't beat on my toys. I just do not trust full syn.

Redline synthetic

I know a guy that went to synthetic in his CBR1000 and he said it kept popping into neutral from 1st gear by itself. He had to go back to the Honda oil to stop that.

Y'all are nuts!! In the summer, 20/50 is definitely a must! 10/40 good for spring and fall! Winter......Put the damn thing away and concentrate on getting laid....:dontknow:

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 10/30 on my R-1 and all my other previous bikes. Never have had a problem with it and have been using silkolene full synthetic on my 06 ZX-10R. +1

Basically, if Kawichem or Honda GN4 is o.k. to use in your bike then pretty much almost any 10W40 auto oil off the shelf at Wally World should be just as good if not actually better than those MC specific oils...At a much better price. I'd like to see a VOA (virgin oil analysis) of Kawichem and compare it to Havoline, Chevron or Castrol GTX...I wouldn't be surprized if the auto oils had a slightly better additive package... And I can pretty much guarantee that any 15W40 "Diesel oil" will have much stronger additive package than any oil sold by the local motorcycle shop...

guys........I ran amsoil (non-moly) in my yami R1 for a season, then stored the bike in my kitchen for the winter (free-heat!). I decided to change the oil in the spring, which I did, I got one ride in and the the clutch started to slip...not bad but it sucked. Everyone said are you sure it was w/o moly,and of course it was. So basically I have only run your basic cheap 10-40 kawi oil since day one in my 10R. BTW my R1 only had ~4000k on the odo, and I don't beat on my toys. I just do not trust full syn. That's odd because Amsoil was tested in sportrider to have next to no moly. http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/photo_04.html

let me put my 2 cents in, the kawachem 10w40 is a very good oil, mobil mxt 10w40 mc is a good full synth. frequent changes with a quality mc specific oil will yield good results.:mrgreen:

At the moment I am using Castrol Actevo 10 40. According to the bottle it has synthetic molecules in it but does not claim to be a synthetic oil...you can figure that one out... I have always used straight dino oil prior to this...specifically kawi chem 10-40 in my suzook and Honda. i switched because Kawi raised its price and castrol was low because it was just being introduced. When the honda 954 came out Honda had a factory bulletin NOT to use their synthetic in that bike as it would cause slippage of clutch.. I don't know why so many sport bikers use a full synthetic when they change their oil as often as they do. As I understand it the major advantage of a syn is that it maintains it sheer qualities much longer than a dino oil, thus its major advantage...but when you change the oil every 2 to 3 thousand miles the advantage is not being used... I recently did an oil change on the zed used castrol and a pure one purolator..when I run out of the castrol ( I have three gallons left) i am switching to Shell Rotella 15-40. In the last ten years I have had two other bikes.. a TL with 50,000 and a blackbird with 80,000...both ran like clocks, have the original clutchs in them and were bulletproof...And I used dino oil and good filters and changed both every 3,000 to 3,500 miles.

Mobile 1 mx4t 10w40. but get them at autopart store. bike dealers are about $4 difference for the same friggin bottle.

I must disagree, Rotella does NOT meet specs for the Ninja.The manual allows 10w30 thru 20w50.Nowhere in the manual does it say 15w40.If Kawasaki found out that you used this oil they could deny a engine warranty claim since this is a non recommended fluid as described in the warranty.Im sure theres a thousand guys that swear by the stuff but I'll stick with what the Kawasaki engineers that designed the engine recommend. Darren I have 30k on my CBR 954, 16k on my 05' 10R using Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic. This oil is not hype! here you go: www.rotella.com (http://www.rotella.com) ,click on the forums and click on the motorcycle section.

:+1: Smooth shifting with the Rotella T SyntheticMore power to you, I've been using the same oil on my bikes for a total miles of 46k. Some skeptics just can't read.lol:wink:

I have 30k on my CBR 954, 16k on my 05' 10R using Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic. This oil is not hype! here you go: www.rotella.com (http://www.rotella.com) ,click on the forums and click on the motorcycle section. Shell Rotella for me too.....:thumbsup: take it for what it is worth :helmet: Main thing is use what makes you happy.:postwhore

What is everybody using and what do you recommend?Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic. $14.00 a gallon with a huge number of people using it. www.rotella.com (http://www.rotella.com)

i use silkolene pro 4 synthetic myself ,but it is my opinion that you cannot go wrong with any name brand be it regular, blend, or full synthetic especially if it is motorcycle specific rated. But that said I have friends that have used just regular automotive oils for years without any problems with their wet clutches, may just depend on the bike. I have also been told by racers and tuners that you should stay with a blend and not go full synthetic if you like to drag race alot.

also one thing for sure never use any oil additives like slick 50 if you have a wet clutch, used it years ago on my first vmax(what a dumb ass!) and my clutch was toast within a week!

baby oil it smells so good!

I don't know why so many sport bikers use a full synthetic when they change their oil as often as they do. As I understand it the major advantage of a syn is that it maintains it sheer qualities much longer than a dino oil, thus its major advantage...but when you change the oil every 2 to 3 thousand miles the advantage is not being used... just a clarification: synthetics are less susceptible to the effects of thermal and to a lesser degree, mechanical stress. this is why their sheer properties maintain longer. however, even with organic oils this is a moot point for engine oil. engine oils suffer from contamination from the products of combustion which form acids, etc that harm the metal of the engine long before the sheer protection wears out. synthetic oils get contaminated just as quickly as organic oils. an actual benificial application for sythetic oil is use in gearboxes. with no evil chemicals from a combustion process fouling the oil, it will last longer than its organic counterpart. marketing people make alot of money.

just a clarification: synthetics are less susceptible to the effects of thermal and to a lesser degree, mechanical stress. this is why their sheer properties maintain longer. however, even with organic oils this is a moot point for engine oil. engine oils suffer from contamination from the products of combustion which form acids, etc that harm the metal of the engine long before the sheer protection wears out. synthetic oils get contaminated just as quickly as organic oils. an actual benificial application for sythetic oil is use in gearboxes. with no evil chemicals from a combustion process fouling the oil, it will last longer than its organic counterpart. marketing people make alot of money. :dontknow: can you give us a bottom line. thanks:thumbsup:

I use Motul Semi Syn 5100. Use it in my Duc 996 and my ZX10R. Also my previous 954RR.:mrgreen:

according to ragingfool, bottom line is you need to change synth oil as often as regular oil and so there is no benefit. just waste of money. :dontknow: but i feel better with marketing assurance. i use those expensive mobile1 synth on my honda civic. after 5000miles the engine light comes on and after oil change it went away.:dontknow:

i like the motul :+1: smoother clutchless up shifts

:dontknow: can you give us a bottom line. thanks:thumbsup: oh not giving advice, just clarifying a point for another member on the subject of synthetic vs. organic. different oils have different additives which may or may not have noticable effects such as smoother shifts. sorry, really couldn't say if one brand is better than another.:dontknow: but i'm sure if you ask any manufacturer, they'll tell you thiers is!

i use silkolene pro 4 synthetic myself ,but it is my opinion that you cannot go wrong with any name brand be it regular, blend, or full synthetic especially if it is motorcycle specific rated. There is nothing different or mysterious that makes a MC specific oil better for use in a motorcycle...If more people had the chance to look at a virgin oil analysis there would be far fewer people spending outrageous prices for these oils...MC specific oil sellers take advantage of ignorance because there is no requirement for them to include the ingredients on the label... Without a VOA the consumer is forced to rely on the claims made on the label like "this special formulation meets and exceeds the high demands of a motorcycle engine"....What's in the oil that makes it better ? It's not on the label. The quality of the base oil is determined by the refining process, quality control, and how pure and free of foreign particles the oil is...These criteria for oil quality is not exclusive to "motorcycle oils" but is the criteria for determining the quality of any motor oil... The other ingredient that makes an oil superior at engine protection is the additive package...There are some additives that can make a clutch slip..There are plenty of auto oils that have outstanding antiwear additive packages that do not have the additives that can cause a clutch to slip... There are good MC specific oils...However there are auto oils that rival and in many cases exceed MC specific oils when it comes to the quality of the base oil and the amount of antiwear additives...At a much lower price. "Diesel oils" come to mind....Do you know what the difference a Diesel oil and car oil ? Diesel oils usually come in a heavier weight and have a higher concentration of antiwear additives... Bottom line is there are many different engine oils and some are better than others and a consumer can find these using the scrutiny of a voa...Use the correct weight for atmospheric temps and quit worrying and paying over inflated prices.

Sands.....Gotta a link to a VOA?

fornication...I ran Amsoil all last year. Put the bike on the stands in mid October and never even started the bike again until March. NO clutch slippage or any other issues.

Royal Purple!!!!!

Mobil 1 Just had the valves checked at 30,450 miles. The mechanic was amazed that no adjustment was needed. He even asked what oil I use.

alot explained here, but don't take it for gospel http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=question164.htm&url=http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Shell Rotella T Synthetic (blue Bottle) At Walmart. 5w40 To Be Exact Cost You 14 Bucks. You're Spare Change Go To Autozone And Get You A Bosch 3300 And The Rest Of The Money That You Save From Trying To Buy Expensive Shit, Buy A Six Pack And Some Doritos.lol

Sands.....Gotta a link to a VOA? Glad you asked...Here's a website that really dispels the claims....A whole bunch of auto oil voa's and MC oil voa's so you can compare.....And new ones are added every once in a while...Common antiwear to look for is calcium, zinc, mag, moly or the lack of it (some forms of moly are clutch safe).... There are some good MC oils...And there are some very weak ones that are popular (motul) and have a high cost but are no better than and often worse than something you can get off the shelf at Wallymart. There are many auto oils that have a more robust antiwear additive package than many popular MC oils... Also be aware that not all synthetics are really synthetic...A group III oil can be called a synthetic when it's really a highly refined organic oil (castrol)...A group III oil is really a good base oil but it's not really synthetic even though they can legally label it as so. If you want a synthetic or an organic oil there are plenty of auto oils that have the kind of additive levels you would want in in a high revving motorcycle engine. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=11

120+ replies, my god. When I post something, like the ignition map, nobody cared and got 8 replies. I am hurt. :crybaby2: :lol:

I used redline 10w40 this last change. I went to synthetic and it made the shifting a little smoother.

I'm not trying to start anything. Use the oil that you want in your bike. Just trying to share the info. It can save you money. Check it out: http://www.rotella.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=Motorcycle

oh boy, here we go again. all i have to say is this, if you change the oil/filter long enough, even the cheap stuff should keep the bike healthy enough. i use amsoil and pureolator filters on my bike and both cars.

I use Castrol R4 and purolator filter on the bike and Amsoil and purolator on my truck.

Oil in my bike... There is oil in there... I've been riding for 7,500 miles simce buying it new... No one said anything about oil...

merged for sake of sanity. BD

Nice Blue wheels.... he he he

Honda GN 4 10/40 God bless your engine!

I was running Repsol syn and it seemed fine but I switched to Castrol R4 SuperBike. This thing seems to shift even better. :badteeth:I tried both brands. You want better shift quality try Shell Rotella T synthetic www.rotella.com (http://www.rotella.com) and let me know.

Nice Blue wheels.... he he he yes thank you. BD

Rotella T synthetic is an excellent oil....I've seen the VOA's and the base oil is very nice...And it's like $14 or so for a 5 quart jug.... The regular Rotella is a 15W40 would be good for summer months if you like dino plus it's alot cheaper...It has an antiwear package that is way stronger than alot of MC oils.... Delo 400 is another good one...But I've heard the new formula has some moly...But again I've also heard that the form of moly in Delo isn't the same as the one that causes clutch slip. Think about it, people that purchase big rigs expect longevity out of their engines...Companies like CAT require a min level specs to certify the oil for use in their engines...There are companies that run independant tests on these oils for engine manufacturers like CAT, Cummins ect ect to verify if these oils are up to the task of providing adequate protection for at least a million miles...These engines probably won't fail because of an oil related issue... People always think that they shouldn't run a Diesel" oil because "it's made for diesels" without ever taking a look at what the difference is....The difference is the level of acid neutralizers and antiwear additives...The stuff you want to find in a good MC oil...Basically the oil lasts longer and offers more protection...

Castrol Power1 15w40 Here.. it's semi synthetic.

amsoil and purlator filter. Thats all you need to know. :eyecrazy: yer that's the shit... my mate runs it and he reckons it's great... just be ready to adjust ya idel... bike runs heaps free.... oh and it;s one the only oils that i seend that makes an increase in power... that on the bottle as well as on the dyno. oh and my mates know's his shit.... i raced karts for years.. now pocket bikes... he's got an 04 gixxer that is almost JSBK Spec

OMIGOD...Wesson Oil.... Then, there is this oil at the local sex shop....it is bright green and if you....oh, nevermind....