:) The following instructions are not detailed to the extent some would like but they are sufficient enough to get the job done for the vast majority. KLEEN /AIS removal procedure: It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid, charcoal canister and associated hoses, it does of course require removing the airbox, and that itself requires an interesting method as the airbox is shoehorned into the spars and can be rotated counter clockwise in conjunction with pushing the rubber air intake boots forward making for the necessary room to remove it. To remove the AIS/KLEEN solenoid, you’ll need the following: (1) 5/8th vacuum cap (primary solenoid feed from airbox base plate) (2) 3/8th vacuum caps (or appropriate reed block off plates) To remove the charcoal canister (and related hardware), you’ll need the following: (2) 1/8th vacuum caps (throttle body lines) (1) 3/16th vacuum cap for the red tank inlet (charcoal canister/fuel tank feed – 1/4th caps may be applicable) (1) suitable hose (perferably the hose with a blue stripe) connected to the blue tank inlet nipple and routed inside the RH frame rail and across the backside of the throttle bodies, then insert a 'T' fitting into it so that the OEM tank vent hose & overflow hose can be connected into the other 2 ends of the 'T' fitting so the tank vents properly. Band / compression clasps, zip ties, hose clamps throughout (where applicable), are essential in order to seal the vacuum caps. BD

Cool. Thanks for the information, BD. FWIW, Dan Kyle (http://www.kyleusa.com) has the block-off plates. (http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_valve_cover_plates_2842836.htm) They are the same as the 636 plates and under $30. Just got mine in the mail this week, but will install this week.

Yeah the plates are by far the cleanest setup but using the plugs gives the same results so its nice to have a choice. BD

:) The following instructions are not detailed to the extent some would like but they are sufficient enough to get the job done for the vast majority. KLEEN /AIS removal procedure: It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid, charcoal canister and associated hoses, it does of course require removing the airbox, and that itself requires an interesting method as the airbox is shoehorned into the spars and can be rotated counter clockwise in conjunction with pushing the rubber air intake boots forward making for the necessary room to remove it. To remove the AIS/KLEEN solenoid, you’ll need the following: (1) 5/8th vacuum cap (primary solenoid feed from airbox base plate) (2) 3/8th vacuum caps (or appropriate reed block off plates) To remove the charcoal canister (and related hardware), you’ll need the following: (2) 1/8th vacuum caps (throttle body lines) (1) 3/16th vacuum cap for the red inlet (charcoal canister/fuel tank feed – 1/4th caps may be applicable) (1) suitable hose (perferably the hose with a blue stripe) connected to the blue inlet and routed inside the RH frame rail and across the backside of the FI bodies, then insert a 'T' fitting into it so that the tank vent/overflow hose can be connected into the other 2 ends so the tank vents properly. Band / compression clasps, zip ties, hose clamps throughout (where applicable), are essential in order to seal the vacuum caps. Sorry no pics as i don't have a digi. :( BD My doctor said that I'm allowed one stupid question per day, so here's today's question. What is the AIS / KLEEN? What does it do and why do you remove it?

Are there any ill effects of using the block off plates? The KLEEN system is just an emissions control component, so disabling it won't affect performance or anything, will it?

Are there any ill effects of using the block off plates? The KLEEN system is just an emissions control component, so disabling it won't affect performance or anything, will it? The plates would be the better setup if you have them or plan to purchase them (at the time they were not available yet so......) The disconnecting of the KLEEN components will not effect performance. BD

Thanks more usefull info.

Cool. Thanks for the information, BD. FWIW, Dan Kyle (http://www.kyleusa.com) has the block-off plates. (http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_valve_cover_plates_2842836.htm) They are the same as the 636 plates and under $30. Just got mine in the mail this week, but will install this week. have you installed these yet? If so, did they do the trick?

Cool. Thanks for the information, BD. FWIW, Dan Kyle (http://www.kyleusa.com) has the block-off plates. (http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_valve_cover_plates_2842836.htm) They are the same as the 636 plates and under $30. Just got mine in the mail this week, but will install this week. have you installed these yet? If so, did they do the trick? Yep, and yep. :) A pic for your viewing pleasure: http://mysite.verizon.net/res02aqx/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/DCP_0814.jpg

those look like pics of a pw 50 :P :twisted: BD

do you live ont he west coast? if so could you do it for me ill buy you something for your bike j/k

do you live ont he west coast? if so could you do it for me ill buy you something for your bike j/k Gladly. But I think I'll take a new bike to go with all the somethings I have, instead. I won't be able to work on anything until the collar bone heals, tho.

It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid yeah, easy access my ass! Canyon- when you installed the block-off plates, did you use any silicone grease around the edge to seal them? Or do you think that's important? I got one plate installed last night, and didn't think about using the grease until after it was all tightened down. I really don't want to have to pull it back off if I don't have to since the forward bolt is a pain in the ass to get to. Also, I wonder if it might be a good idea to wire up a resistor in place of that air solenoid thingy so the ECU won't notice that it's gone. Just a thought....

:D BD

Canyon- when you installed the block-off plates, did you use any silicone grease around the edge to seal them? Or do you think that's important? I got one plate installed last night, and didn't think about using the grease until after it was all tightened down. I really don't want to have to pull it back off if I don't have to since the forward bolt is a pain in the ass to get to. Also, I wonder if it might be a good idea to wire up a resistor in place of that air solenoid thingy so the ECU won't notice that it's gone. Just a thought.... Nope, didn't use any grease or sealant of any kind. Thought about it, but the gaskets/seals that were in place looked nice and clean & fresh, so I figured I'd try without and re-do if they didn't seal properly. Luckily, they sealed fine without any help. As for the resistor idea, I just removed the solenoid. It didn't cause any issues with the ECU as far as I can tell. No codes or FI lights flashing. It would appear that it doesn't feed back problems to the ECU. BTW, yeah the bolts are a pain to get at. I didn't remove the side panels, but am a professional contortionist with an allen wrench. :lol:

as of just a couple of days ago my FI light has come on and has remained on. I've made to changes since my KLEEN/AIS removal. BD

Canyon- There aren't any seals/gaskets in there.... are you talking about the reed valves? I wasn't sure if the bolts that came with the plates were long enough to keep those in, so I removed them.

Canyon- There aren't any seals/gaskets in there.... are you talking about the reed valves? I wasn't sure if the bolts that came with the plates were long enough to keep those in, so I removed them. Yes I am. The reed valves stay in place. If you remove them, you've lost your seals. I'd suggest you put them back, and things should be fine. The bolts do seem a bit short, but I had no problems with them. If you are using the Kyle plates that I have, the bolts should be the correct length.

aww man.... those reed valves are way too heavy! I'm looking for MAXIMUM weight reduction here... :D

aww man.... those reed valves are way too heavy! I'm looking for MAXIMUM weight reduction here... :D :lol: Well, I suppose you could take the ol' die-grinder to the inner portion of them, to reduce the weight of the valve. Just be sure to leave the sealing portion alone. :wink: Then again, I've seen people use JB Weld to seal the passages before. I imagine this would save weight, but at what price, I don't know. :roll:

ok... got everything in order and put the bike back together. Took it for a spin and immediately realized something was wrong. Turns out I forgot to reconnect the sub throttle valve actuator (disconnecting it made it easier to get at one of the bolts). Hopefully I'll be able to remove the right mid fairing and snake my hand up in there from the front to reconnect it.... God I hope so.

About how long did the whole procedure take you guys, and what was the difficulty level?

took me a total of about 2.5 hours or so. but I had to take one of the block-off plates back off and reinsert the reed valve, so it might take you less time. The trick is to have a good idea of exactly what needs to be done beforehand (like knowing how to get the airbox out... that saves about an hour right there :) ) As for parts, if you have a 49 state bike, you just need the block-off plates and one 5/8 inch rubber cap. Difficulty level: basic wrench turning. Having the service manual helps somewhat if you get stuck trying to figure out how to remove a certain component.

Ok, now I got a problem. One of the techs half assed removed the charcoal can. Now I got a gas leak down the side of my engine. I lifted the tank to see what he had done. The can is gone and so is the purge, or smaller canister? There are two open lines from the bottom of the tank, that are now connected to NOTHING. Are both the red and blue fittings on the tank supposed to be open? Then there are two more hoses, looks like they come from the throttle body area, that are plugged with screws... The tech that works on my bike got like halfway into it, then is off on disability now because of carpal tunnel or some shit. He's a great tech, but now I am left with problems that I didn't start, so I don't know what to plug or leave vented. And the gas leaking down the side of my bike is REALLY pissing me off.

maybe this will help: To remove the charcoal canister (and related hardware), you’ll need the following: (2) 1/8th vacuum caps (throttle body lines) (1) 3/16th vacuum cap for the red nipple (charcoal canister/fuel tank feed – 1/4th caps may be applicable) (1) hose connected to the blue nipple and routed along the inside of the RH frame spar and then routed across the backside of the FI bodies where a ‘T’ fitting is inserted so that the overflow/vent hose from the left hand side can be connected for proper venting purposes. Band / compression clasps, zip ties, hose clamps throughout (where applicable), are essential in order to seal the vacuum caps. Sorry no pics as i don't have a digi. BD

I just talked to a few different guys and they are all telling me that I should leave the two tank fittings vented to nothing. Then plug the two that come off the throttle bodies. Isn't the red hose(or blue?) the vent that is from the gas cap? I saw that there's a hole in the filler neck area of the gas tank, and it seems to go to one of the red or blue hoses...

if you blow some compressed air into the cap vent hole you'll see it vents through (forgot which one) 1 of the tank vents in the upper RH corner. BD

Sorry, I am just so damn confused...

Just how does one get the airbox out? I fought and fought with mine when installing the PCIII-USB and never managed to do more than get it good-n-stuck

Yeah its a PITA thats for sure! i managed to turn mine counter clockwise with a bit of a tilt while pushing the rubber intake boots outta the way......no i don't have 4 hands but i am persistant. BD

hmmm, counterclockwise is 6, 5, 4, 3....? tilt toward you or away? I have Dan's block off plates and once I get the vacuum caps I'll need to be back in there.

as you probably noticed theres an indent in each frame rail thats there so the box fits very snug, well once you've turned it a 1/2 turn counter clockwise tilt it so the bottom of the box sticks up somewhat and as you lift it continue turning until it comes loose.........well atleast thats my version of how i did it a couple of months ago. BD

ok, thanks

hmmm, counterclockwise is 6, 5, 4, 3....? tilt toward you or away? I have Dan's block off plates and once I get the vacuum caps I'll need to be back in there. My understanding is that the plates prevent back firing under de-excelleration. How back does the back firing have to be to warrant all this trouble? I'm told that my bike back fires but I've never noticed it.

hmmm, counterclockwise is 6, 5, 4, 3....? tilt toward you or away? I have Dan's block off plates and once I get the vacuum caps I'll need to be back in there. My understanding is that the plates prevent back firing under de-excelleration. How back does the back firing have to be to warrant all this trouble? I'm told that my bike back fires but I've never noticed it. The backfiring just irritates me ... I'ts probley not goona screw anything up.

as of just a couple of days ago my FI light has come on and has remained on. I've made to changes since my KLEEN/AIS removal. BD Hey BD, Did you find out what caused the FI light to come on? I am in the process of removing the KLEEN solenoid and was wondering if it is worth it? I also plan on installing the block-off plates. If it causes the FI light to come on, I don't think I want to do it. Anyone with knowledge of this procedure is welcomed to answer.

The FI light eventually went off on its own, so not knowing why it was activated in the first place leaves me wondering WTF!! perhaps it was due to moisture/wetness after i washed it and the once the water evaporated it went off (guess only) suffice to say the FI light never came on prior to the bubble bath 8-) BD

Thanx BD

I realize now that unfortunately I am one of the "retards" and not in the "vast majority". I was feeling comfortable about doing this when I got the plates from Kyle's and read through a couple of posts. But does anybody have pictures or more information on the charcoal canister? Do I need any vacuum caps if I am using plates? Any help is greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!! "sm" Shawn M Bowen

I realize now that unfortunately I am one of the "retards" and not in the "vast majority". I was feeling comfortable about doing this when I got the plates from Kyle's and read through a couple of posts. But does anybody have pictures or more information on the charcoal canister? Do I need any vacuum caps if I am using plates? Any help is greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!! "sm" Shawn M Bowen As you've either found out or are going to the vacuum caps are only required if you leave the OEM plates intact but since your using the plates from DK theres no need. BD

Ok, call me an idiot but why did everyone do this again, was it just for weight reduction? I havent read anywhere if it really helped hp gains or performance? Once again if I missed it let me know.

weight, and it reduces the amount of popping/backfiring you hear with an aftermarket exhaust. No HP benefits though.

weight, and it reduces the amount of popping/backfiring you hear with an aftermarket exhaust. No HP benefits though.It sounded to me like the backfiring increased when the KLEEN was messed with? I mean isnt the clean there to catch unburned fuel and make the engine burn more efficiently to meet cali standards? I would imagine by removing this it would increase the chances of backfire. I mean isnt a backfire fuel catching inside your canister causing a audible pop as it burns or creates a small explosion?

Sort of Frank, The only thing the AIS(Air Injection System) does is pump fresh air into the exhaust just after the exhaust valves. This allows any unburned fuel leftover from the combustion process to mix with the fresh air and burn in the pipe. the stock pipe has enough baffling so you don't really hear the backfiring, but with an aftermarket pipe you do. Installing block off plates stops the flow of fresh air into the exhaust and reduces the amount of 'afterburning' that occurs in the exhaust pipe.

As you've either found out or are going to the vacuum caps are only required if you leave the OEM plates intact but since your using the plates from DK theres no need. BD You do need some vacuum caps even if you are installing the block off plates. On my CA model there was a small 4mm (0.160") nipples coming out of the Cyl#1 throttle body and the Cyl#2 throttle body (2 total) that I had to plug. You can use 1/8" vacuum caps here. If memory serves me correctly these were attached to the charcoal canister. Also there is the large nipple 15mm (0.590") coming out of the bottom of the airbox/throttle plate. You can use a 5/8" cap here. This nipple supplies air to the air solenoid that is removed with the installation of the block off plates. Hope that helps

:iamwithst

You do need some vacuum caps even if you are installing the block off plates. On my CA model there was a small 4mm (0.160") nipples coming out of the Cyl#1 throttle body and the Cyl#2 throttle body (2 total) that I had to plug. You can use 1/8" vacuum caps here. If memory serves me correctly these were attached to the charcoal canister. Also there is the large nipple 15mm (0.590") coming out of the bottom of the airbox/throttle plate. You can use a 5/8" cap here. This nipple supplies air to the air solenoid that is removed with the installation of the block off plates. Hope that helps Omega all of this is mentioned in the very beginning of the thread. My reply to SMbowen was mearly to let him know that the DK plates do not require any vacuum caps BUT if someone is using the exhisting OEM plates then yes they will require two 5/8" caps. :smile: BD

I Bought Some Block Off Plates From Ivans Performance And They Are Top Notch, He Stated That The Fi Light Will Come On.. A Resistor Is Needed To Prevent This. It Should Be As Simple As Taking A Meter And Read Across The Valve Poles And Going To Radio Shack For The Resistor.. Has Anyone Done This Yet? If Not I Will This Weekend.

I installed the Dan Kyle block off plates, and the FI light didn't come on.

It Will Give It Time

I Bought Some Block Off Plates From Ivans Performance And They Are Top Notch, He Stated That The Fi Light Will Come On.. A Resistor Is Needed To Prevent This. It Should Be As Simple As Taking A Meter And Read Across The Valve Poles And Going To Radio Shack For The Resistor.. Has Anyone Done This Yet? If Not I Will This Weekend.I did the block off and no FI light on my bike.

Nor mine after 1,400m, well except for when it got wet from a bath. BD

I Bought Some Block Off Plates From Ivans Performance And They Are Top Notch, He Stated That The Fi Light Will Come On.. A Resistor Is Needed To Prevent This. It Should Be As Simple As Taking A Meter And Read Across The Valve Poles And Going To Radio Shack For The Resistor.. Has Anyone Done This Yet? If Not I Will This Weekend. Not true. If Ivan stated this, he is mistaken.

You do need some vacuum caps even if you are installing the block off plates. On my CA model there was a small 4mm (0.160") nipples coming out of the Cyl#1 throttle body and the Cyl#2 throttle body (2 total) that I had to plug. You can use 1/8" vacuum caps here. If memory serves me correctly these were attached to the charcoal canister. Also there is the large nipple 15mm (0.590") coming out of the bottom of the airbox/throttle plate. You can use a 5/8" cap here. This nipple supplies air to the air solenoid that is removed with the installation of the block off plates. Hope that helps So is this exactly what i need for this mod? DK block off plates (2) 1/8" vacum caps for the Cyl#1 & 2 throttle bodies (1) 5/8" vacum cap for the bottom of the airbox/throttle plate Anything else I need to buy? How do u know which are the Cyl#1 & 2 throttle bodies?

Also, do u have to completely remove the tank or just tilt it up?

Also, do u have to completely remove the tank or just tilt it up? Just tilt it up. Much easier than removing the tank.

If you disconnect the wire while the engine is running....the EFI light will come on. But if you disconnect the wire when the bike is off, the light will not come on. So the answer is a resistor is not needed. We have our own CNC machined (black anodized) block off plates as well, and the necessary vacuum caps all in one kit for $35.00. Ivan

does any1 have a pic of everything that was removed during the install?

I stand corrected once again... I'm such a dumbass

So is this exactly what i need for this mod? DK block off plates (2) 1/8" vacum caps for the Cyl#1 & 2 throttle bodies (1) 5/8" vacum cap for the bottom of the airbox/throttle plate Anything else I need to buy? How do u know which are the Cyl#1 & 2 throttle bodies? If you are sitting on the bike cyl #1 is on the left, the opposite side from the clutch. Also you'll know which ones are #1 & #2 because when you remove your EVAP canister there are rubber lines going to these nipples that you'll be blocking off. Sorry I don't have pictures of everything you'll be removing. You are going to need to remove the fuel tank, and the airbox to get to this stuff.

If you are sitting on the bike cyl #1 is on the left, the opposite side from the clutch. Also you'll know which ones are #1 & #2 because when you remove your EVAP canister there are rubber lines going to these nipples that you'll be blocking off. Sorry I don't have pictures of everything you'll be removing. You are going to need to remove the fuel tank, and the airbox to get to this stuff. K, I got the vacum plugs today from NAPA. I ordered the block off plates, too which shud get here tomorow or friday. "Remove the tank or just lift it up?"

I don't see how you'd get the airbox out without removing the tank. The tank is not hard to remove; some screws, an electrical connection, and a fuel line quick disconnect and its off. The airbox is a bigger PITA than the tank, but the info is here on the board on "how to" remove the airbox.

Getting the airbox out while the tank is still attached is easy. You just need to get the tank up high enough to be out of the way. I used a tie-down strap attached to a hook in the ceiling of my garage. Then just used a couple zip-ties through the forward tank mounting bolt holes to attach the tie-down strap to the tank. Here's a pic that doesn't show it real well, but you probably get the idea:

tank is out. took out all d bolts for the airbox. do the 2 rubber air inlets just pull out? then twist the airbox assembly out???

Nobody has any pics of all the stuff removed eh?

Do you remove the reed valves(left)or is it better to keep them in there when i install the block off plates? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Franco101/francos.jpg

leave the reed valve in there and just replace the OEM cover with the new plates. BD

So if I leave the reed valves in there, i dont need to use any gasket maker then, correct?

correct-a-mundo :thumbsup: BD

kool i got it done..i'll post pix tomorrow of everything i remove

Here's the pix I took. 1st pic is the plates installed & the wiring cleaned up a little bit (electric tape & zip ties). 2nd pic is the (2) 1/8" plugs to throttle bodies #1 & #2 & the 5/8" plug (zip tied) to the throttle body plate. 3rd pic is all the Cali/smog junk removed. Hope this helps anyone:) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Franco101/francos002.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Franco101/francos001.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Franco101/francos003.jpg

good man! BD

:) The following instructions are not detailed to the extent some would like but they are sufficient enough to get the job done for the vast majority. KLEEN /AIS removal procedure: It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid, charcoal canister and associated hoses, it does of course require removing the airbox, and that itself requires an interesting method as the airbox is shoehorned into the spars and can be rotated counter clockwise in conjunction with pushing the rubber air intake boots forward making for the necessary room to remove it. To remove the AIS/KLEEN solenoid, you’ll need the following: (1) 5/8th vacuum cap (primary solenoid feed from airbox base plate) (2) 3/8th vacuum caps (or appropriate reed block off plates) To remove the charcoal canister (and related hardware), you’ll need the following: (2) 1/8th vacuum caps (throttle body lines) (1) 3/16th vacuum cap for the red inlet (charcoal canister/fuel tank feed – 1/4th caps may be applicable) (1) suitable hose (perferably the hose with a blue stripe) connected to the blue inlet and routed inside the RH frame rail and across the backside of the FI bodies, then insert a 'T' fitting into it so that the tank vent/overflow hose can be connected into the other 2 ends so the tank vents properly. Band / compression clasps, zip ties, hose clamps throughout (where applicable), are essential in order to seal the vacuum caps. Sorry no pics as i don't have a digi. :( BDAll you guys doing the block off plate mod are LOSING FREE HP . You need a .75 meter long by 1/2" inside diameter hose . Connect the new hose to the KLEEN AIS solenoid and the other end to the engine crank case vent port on the engine block . Here is a link that tells about the positive effects/free HP of a high vacuum on the crank case . http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/0304_381/index1.html

tberd, u got me worried! c'mon yall. any more opinions on this???

The difference getween the system used on the car is that the crankcase is connected to an actual pump (which is running all the time)..... On our bikes, the reed valve system (air induction system/KLEEN system) works only on decell (high vacuum, closed throttle).... So when you are operating the bike at full throttle (which is the most amount of crankcase pressure) under this condition, the reed valves are held shut by exhaust pressure, and the crankcase will not vent at all.... This is bad because you run the risk of overpressuring the crankcase, and blowing out seals and gaskets. Ivan

Ivan...are you saying people should not be doing this or is it ok?

Should not.... :) Ivan

The difference getween the system used on the car is that the crankcase is connected to an actual pump (which is running all the time)..... On our bikes, the reed valve system (air induction system/KLEEN system) works only on decell (high vacuum, closed throttle).... So when you are operating the bike at full throttle (which is the most amount of crankcase pressure) under this condition, the reed valves are held shut by exhaust pressure, and the crankcase will not vent at all.... This is bad because you run the risk of overpressuring the crankcase, and blowing out seals and gaskets. Ivan I put my bike on a rear stand . Opened the oil cap on the clutch cover . Stuck a playing card over the hole where the oil cap was . Applied a little rear brake for a simulated load . I had vacuum all the time . All RPM's the playing card was trying to get sucked into the crank case . Where is this pressure at Ivan ? Here are some more links about this mod below . http://www.schnitzracing.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=15&TopicID=661&SearchPagePosition=1&search=pair+valve+&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Topic&forum=0&searchSort=dateDESC&ReturnPage=Search http://www.schnitzracing.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=15&TopicID=555&SearchPagePosition=1&search=pair+valve+&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Topic&forum=0&searchSort=dateDESC&ReturnPage=Search http://www.schnitzracing.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=15&TopicID=124&SearchPagePosition=1&search=pair+valve+&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Topic&forum=0&searchSort=dateDESC&ReturnPage=Search

Should not.... :) Ivan Should not do the block off plate mod/remove the KLEEN/AIS? or Should not do the FREE HP mod .75 meter long by 1/2" inside diameter hose connected the to the KLEEN AIS solenoid and the other end to the engine crank case vent port on the engine block? :dontknow: :confused:

Should not do the FREE HP mod .75 meter long by 1/2" inside diameter hose connected the to the KLEEN AIS solenoid and the other end to the engine crank case vent port on the engine block? Ivan :smile: