Kawasaki ZX-10R.net - View Single Post - Gen 5: 2016 -> Sprocket change or OEM?
Thread: Gen 5: 2016 -> Sprocket change or OEM?
View Single Post
post #6 of Old 01-03-2017, 11:17 AM
SkyDork
REPOST Enforcement Mod
 
SkyDork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL (The Dub-C)
Posts: 13,113
Posting Frequency
           
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by vroomshankar View Post
Thanks guys. Read up on a lot of threads on the forum in the meantime on the subject.

Will read up a bit more and then decide between going either (stock/+1) or (-1/+1) considering I need to strike the right balance between acceleration and top end. Maybe I will just order a stock front, a -1 front and a +1 rear and swap the fronts if I dont like one particular combination. The +1 on the rear is sure go ahead.

Read up on the different threads and the conversion factors between the sprockets. This is why I love this forum!

Also checked out gearingcommander.com but not very convinced on the top end speeds being projected in the algorithms. I frankly believe the actual difference is better felt and calculated with actual riding.

Just wanted feedback from folks who have possibly tried both stock/+1 and -1/+1. Will make decision making a lot easier.

Have decided to stick to the 525 pitch and steel sprockets as I dont want to keep changing sprockets too often. Thinking of going with Vortex steel sprockets (unless any of you have had a bad experience with vortex). Will get to the 520 and all aluminium conversion if I start racing. Till then 525 FTW.

A buddy who runs a -1/+2 on his 08 R1 suggested that I prepare myself for a lower gas mileage (doesnt matter too much) and a 10-15% more tyre wear with a -1/+2.
Then there are guys like me who prefer +2 rear only so the change is not too aggressive and it shortens the wheelbase to help with turn-in slightly. Plus the rear sprocket is much easier to change. This is essentially the same as going -1F, but with the advantages I just mention.

Gearingcommander.com speeds are theoretical based on the internal/external gearing. It's easy to calculate that stuff and pretty accurate*. But it doesn't take into account aerodynamic drag and torque - which means that those speed calculations are only accurate IF (and only if) the motor has enough power to get you to the RPM stated in the utility. I wouldn't focus at the top speeds listed, but rather the drop in MPH and rise in RPM based on difference between gearing combinations.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

Ridding the Internet of bad grammar, 1 post at a time.
#WordCrimes




SkyDork is offline  
 
 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome